I dont no what else i can tell you it only does it when its hot out cool days it starts right up. when you first try to start it only makes a clicking noise, try again same thing. try again it will start and shut right off. half to wait 10 min and try again, starts right up runs like nothing wrong
SOURCE: s-10 won't start
My Answer:
Being a Degreed expert in this Electronics field this should be fairly easy. See my professional references posted at the end.
First of all - It appears (notice I say appears) that your charging system is functioning OK if you did the
QUICKIE alternator/regulator test and that part appears to be fine. Did you?
Next - Never ASSUME you have a good, fully charged, or even a NEW battery whatever the case may be. I've seen brand
new batts fail a few months after purchase for no known reason at all.
Water level should be topped off esp during Hotter weather as water
level will drop as the batt ages.
AND - when in doubt - Always do a hydrometer test on each cell, and
make sure all cells read equally at approx 1.285 to 1.290 - indicating
a fully charged batt.
Next - do a batt LOAD TEST.
When doing a LOAD TEST with an external 100 Amp Load Tester make sure
you disconnect the POS terminal cable (or better yet both batt cables)
on the batt before doing a good Load Test on a "supposed" fully charged batt.
Batt voltage on a good fully charged batt should never drop much
below
11.4 to 11.7 volts doing a 10 second load test using a 100 Amp Load
Tester
similar to say one bought at Harbor Freight Tools for like $15 when
they are on sale. If the voltage drops below 11.4 volts, or even say 10
volts - then your batt is NO GOOD. That is - if it indeed is FULLY
charged??
If the top of the batt is wet (for whatever reason such as dew-point or
leaky batt acid) this will cause the batt to self-discharge right
across the top of the batt. Just like putting a small light-bulb across
the batt posts and causing a drain. It happens more times than you care
to know. When I worked at SEARS I seen it day in and day out......trust
me I know this for FACT!
If the batt posts are very very dirty then that very possibly is your
problem right there (you'll need to remove both cable clamps, and clean
both the clamps and the batt posts until the lead is nice and shiny and
then re-tighten again!).
If your batt is being run down for any reason you'll need to do a few more checks below:
Next - you'll want to check for a couple things at night, or else
daylight will work as well - if you have good eyesight. You want to
check and make sure your "backup lights" aren't ON when the Headlights
Switch is turned OFF and the Ignition Switch is OFF as well. Sometimes
a SHORTED Transmission Backup Light Switch will cause a battery drain
with everything shut off. Sometimes!
Also - If you have any Interior Lights left on when the SUV doors are all closed that will surely drain the battery down.
A radio/stereo left ON will do the same as well.
A shorted tail-light (or any marker light) will also cause a battery to drain over time.
Any vehicles that have an under the hood light Mercury Tilt Switch for the
Engine compartment sometimes can have this switch mounting come loose
and when you shut the hood the light will actually stay lit thus
draining the batt down as well. Make sure you check it at NIGHT during
darkness as it will show up better.
If any of the above proves indeed to be a batt drain related problem, then we nest need to isolate the related problem.
In which case you will have to do an
actual DVM in-line amp meter test to see just how much current leakage
(shorting) you have. A fuse block isolation test will next have to be
done to isolate from which circuit leg the short (or current drain) is
coming from.
Once that circuit is isolated then it's just a matter of finding the shorted device or shorted wire(s).
If you just added anything new electrical wise to the Jeep recently-
then that is a good starting point - for if the problem wasn't there
before that time, and now it is - then there is your culprit!
If you are using an external battery charging PV (Photo-voltaic) panel,
and it's bad for any reason - then it will drain your battery down as
well, esp if the blocking or back diode goes bad.
Also - If you have a dual battery system with a BATTERY ISOLATOR
installed you might want to double check all your wiring there as well
- as I've seen them go bad and cause many a battery problem!
Having said that above -
Some Ford models also have/had a dual SOLENOID system with one being
right near the batt, and the other one (normally) mounted on the
starter.
Both solenoids will need to be checked in that case, as the starter
solenoid might be good but the "ignition" solenoid might be bad - as to
having bad LOAD contacts inside or else loose Batt +12 volt cables!!
Cables can get loose or else go bad at the crimped lug ends!
It's rare that the starter itself or the starter solenoid has a bad
ground, as then the solenoid mounting bolts or starter mounting bolts
would have to be pretty darn loose. It happens but not that often.
Usually the flywheel will make a GRINDING sound first and that is a BIG
indication something is terribly WRONG there!!
If all the above proves NOT to be the apparent cause, or seemingly not
related to the starter problem itself, then very well the starter
brushes are shot - as in worn out! At which point a replacement starter
is needed. Providing this is the OLD starter indeed, and not a rebuilt
one to begin with that just has been replaced recently. Is it the
original, or OLD starter?
If so and if it's had over 100-150,000 miles on it - chances are it's SHOT.
It's gotta be something I just went over here - as I covered everything......
Let me know what it was OK? Post a reply here and please rate my troubleshooting fix.
Thx,
Frank
SOURCE: 2002 Monte Carlo wont start
sounds like your passlock sensor on the ignition barrel is faulty. you will have to go to the dealer to have it replaced because of the programming after replacement.
SOURCE: Vehicle shuts off and will not start back up right away. P0601
what that means is your engine goes into protection mode and shut's off this is mostlikel;y do due to low coolant level or low oil level/pressure. have this checked by a qualified tech. diagnostic equipment must be used to clear the code after the problem is solved in order for your vehicle to run properly
SOURCE: only makes a clicking noise and wont start
First, remove the battery terminals and clean them. Check that the ground wire on the block is tight and clean and the wire at the starter is also good. If you have 12v at the main starter cable and12v at the smaller (trigger) wire next to it with the key turned to the "start" position, it's likely the starter is bad (providing you can turn the engine by hand with key switch off) Make sure that the battery has 12v before starting diagnosis...radio etc. draw far less than the starter does. Even if relatively new, if the charging system isn't working, it will draw down the battery in less than an hour while driving..
I had the same problem. Turns out,( and I didn't believe it when I was told) but, my problem turned out to be cheap (inferiour) plugs and wired. I was reccomended to use NKG plugs and Borg-Warner wires.
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