Mate, remove the idle air valve, clean the pintle with brake cleaner but try not to turn the pintle when cleaning. The pintle is the part with a spring on it. It builds up carbon over time. If you are unable to clean it because it may be a sealed type, have it tested and replace if bad... cheers
Could be the TPS - throttle postion sensor , a problem with IAC - idle air control -passages partly clogged not allowing enough air to by-pass the throttle plate or a EGR valve that could be carboned up an not closing all the way . A EGR valve that is sticking open can cause a false MAP sensor code. Video's on youtube showing how to check , an clean .
080 EGR and Catalytic Converter Tests EGR Test
Hooking up a capable scan tool an viewing sensor data would point to problem .
It could be a problem with the wiring with the sensor. You would need a multi-meter to check the wiring. Diagnostics cannot tell if the sensor is bad, only that the information sent does not agree with what should be reported.
SOURCE: 2000 jeep cherokee starts then stalls in approx 3 sec 4.0 has new crank sensor
I am going to assume that it will not run even if you push on the accelerator pedal?
Can you install or attach an old timing light to the spark plug wires, turn it one and try to start it. The light should flash with the engine running, but if it shuts off at time of engine die, and the engine is still spinning, you are losing spark, My suggestion is the cranks shaft sensor on bell housing.
Second, install a pressure gage on the test port on the fuel rail and watch it as you start the engine, fuel pressure should not drop as the engine dies, if it does, the pump is not working correctly. There are two modes of power to that pump, one to start and timed, for only a few seconds to prime the system, and one to run continuously. Find the wires going to the pump at the tank. Connect test light to those wires and watch what happens during crank and at stall, You should not have the pump shut off and the engine dies.
If you have spark, and fuel pump working, when did you last change the filter,,but I put that LAST.
It has to be one or the other of these.
Good Luck
SOURCE: 98 jeep grand cherokee diagnostic codes
Sounds just like mine and after a lot of headscratching it looks like mine has the common fault of a crack in the manifold which is allowing oxygen rich air in and giving false readings leading to the ecu overcompensating hence the lumpiness unless you have your foot down when theres plenty of output from the engine and correct readings. AND/OR a faulty sensor in the manifold. I know i have a crack in mine just above the donut joint i can hear and see it so have ordered a twinflex replacement stainless item will then get it back on computer and next step is replace sensor (twinflex around £100 for item on ebay)
SOURCE: 04 jeep grand cherokee bucks and jerks while
Look for noise in the TPS circuit that can cause TCC to lock and unlock.
SOURCE: 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Keeps stalling, engine
P0505 means the whole Idle Control system, not only the IAM. Check all related sensors (i.e. crankshaft sensor). Check with a voltmeter direct at the connector of the IAM if you get any signal. Remove the IAM from the TB, connect him, let someone switch your ignition key to ON. The IAM need to drive in/out for a short time to find the right position. Hold the IAM near a hard part, that they cant drive out completely! If IAM works fine, check the fuel pressure, check and clean your TB ( if not done yet). If that doesn't work, come back again please
SOURCE: 2004 jeep grand cherokee overheating and loud noise
sounds like one of two problems your fan is not working properly or you radiator is particularly restricted
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It is your (CPS) Crank Shaft Position Sensor. It will throw Tps, IAC and every other code. It stalls then cuts of some times but usually starts right back up. Go to the salvage an take it off yourself, just make sure that it has a magnetic field or it's no good. You'll need a short 11 millimeter socket, small extension with a stiff swivel, wrap electrical tape on the swivel to keep it stiff. Utube how to remove it from inside. Then you'll have to unsnap the gear linkage and squeeze the plastic fitting together to pull the linkage out. Then slide your hand in the gap where the linkage was and set the CPS in the hole the screw the bolt in from under the jeep and tighten it all the way from the inside through the hidden plate that you removed to take it out. (it's really simple) tie a string on the old One before removing it to pull the new one back over the transmission.
The CPS always gives the wrong codes on a jeep. I guarantee that that is the problem. I believe it's code is the same as the throttle position sensor, since the pcm (brain) reads them all as the same sign. Good luck and ill try to make an account with a video or send you a private email on how to change it without a jack. Just be sure to tie a string on the old one's connection first. Oh yeah, With the key on , unplug both wire harnesses that are from the pcm going towards the motor to rest and clear evry code.
I also have an extra one that I pulled from the salvage for my 2000 jeep grand cherokee. We can make arrangements Via PayPal if you're interested.
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