1992 Buick Park Avenue Logo
Troy Gorman Posted on Jul 06, 2012

Park Avenue Stalls wont crank when warmed up

My car will get to around 180 degrees F and if I let off the gas driving it just stalls out. When I try to crank it again it just turns over but will not start. No check engine lights is on other then when it stalls and all my dash lights come on. It only does it after driving about 5 miles from a cold start. If I wait 15 - 40 minutes my car will crank and drive 5 more miles and Ill have to wait and repeat process. Please help driving a suburban to work everyday is killing me in gas. Its a 3800 series v6 automatic has just over 200000 miles.. Local shop couldnt figure out problem as no check engine light is on

  • 2 more comments 
  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 08, 2012

    Ok I went to a U pull it yard yesterday and got a Icm from a 93 park avenue it has on extra prong for the wiring harness but fits car so now it won't start after driving until it warms up and turning it off I have to wait around 40 minutes for it to crank and drive fine until I turn it off again I'm going to see today if I can get it to stall still anyone think it could be the fuel pump?

  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 08, 2012

    Ok just got the old Icm tested and it test out good.... So maybe yesterday I didn't drive it enough to stall out but when it won't crank it has a smell of boiled eggs from exhaust like it's gettin to much gas and no spark

  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 08, 2012

    Ya I wouldn't think filter as it would do it constantly if it was clogged I would think it also seems to heat up quick in wondering if my thermostat is messed up if so would that make it just stall out once to hot? Temp fluctuates from 180 to 200

  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 08, 2012

    Ok drove and didn't kill the engine when I was at my friends house cam home turn car off tried cranking it and it just turns over I'll have to wait for it to cool to crank

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1 Answer

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  • Contributor 23 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 08, 2012
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Joined: Jul 08, 2012
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No its not the fuel pump, filter maybe... cant see why though.

  • 1 more comment 
  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 17, 2012

    Ok today I replace fuel filter and coolant temp sensor to dash I noticed the car get to 210 degrees at a red light drove it back home stalled in driveway put in park cranked right up while in park I would gas it up to about 2500-3000 Rpms let off gas car would kinda stumble and die if I immediately press on gas it will stay running could a bad thermostat make it overheat then it dies? Not understanding and the check engine light comes on right before it dies but when I restart the car it's gone

  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 17, 2012

    Also either the compressor or fan was switching on everytime it stalled or atleast it sounds like stalled 3 times in my yard but cranked right back up don't know if several things are bad or just different symptoms everyday wasn't stalling when I put on new Icm could it be crankshaft sensor maybe? Also I hit a ditch about 2000 miles prior to this not real hard but the car did shut off when I hit it

  • Troy Gorman
    Troy Gorman Jul 17, 2012

    Ok made sure it doesn't stall when ac compressor or fan engages.... I'm looking at now q bad thermostat or crankshaft sensor and I'm going to assume the sensor as maybe when I hit the ditch it jarred it? Any help would be great seems nobody answers my questions on here anymore must have to pay I guess

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4 Related Answers

Paul Hickman

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 17, 2008

SOURCE: car stalls

when the motor is idling the ESC (electronic spark control) module (also called ignition module) is responsible for the spark timing until the engine speed rises above 1500rpm when the PCM takes over. There is also a sensor behind the crankshaft pulley which sends a switching signal to the PCM & the ESC. Both of these are possible culprits. I suggest try an ESC (mounted underneath the three coils on left-hand side of the motor, and remmovable by removing the 6x7mm bolts holding down each of the coils and an 8mm bolt holding the electrical connector in ) from a junkyard from a know working car, if this does not solve your problem the crankshaft sensor is the next stop, To remove this you need to jack up the passenger side of the car and remove the front wheel, then remove the plastic cowling (being careful to unclip the cables from the cowling) using the 4x 7mm bolts at the top and side. When the pulley is in view remove the 24mm bolt holding the pulley on and the switch is behind it mounted on two 10mm bolts . good luck

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Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 21, 2008

SOURCE: 1994 buick lasaber

What do you mean by checked the computer?? did he run a trouble code test?

alicantecoli

Colin Stickland

  • 22516 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 11, 2009

SOURCE: 1989 Park Avenue dying after 60 miles, restart immediately then

sounds like the ignition module but it could be a fuel problem

Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 31, 2011

SOURCE: I was driving in a

sounds like you got something wet...when was last tune up? perhaps ignition wires are still wet. Did you go through sever puddles? Might be time for a tune up

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