Hey i'm having the same problem and i am stumped! I have't changed the hidden mount yet (didn't know it was there). I was wonder if you ever figured it out!
Please send me an email if you get a chance.
Brandon
[email protected]
Hay i'm back today I fixed the vibration and noise problem 01-10-2009 I removed and replaced that what Dodge calls the rear engine mount the one that is through the frame rail on the passengers side. acording to the Hayes service manual it dident seem diffacult but I was wrong the manual does not tell all , the engin has to be completly free so you can push back the engine toward the drivers side to give you enough room to pull out mount from frame rail took me between 3&4 hrs I'm a industriar truck Tech by trade and had all the tools nessary to do the job call me if you want here is my home phone num. 850-971-0085
Yes, the mounts are a bit of a pain to replace. :(
The material used in the stock mounts is very cheap and soft rubber.
Dont even bother trying to adjust.. just replace them.
Consider buying the brand, "Anchor" mounts.
Urethane mounts are fine too, but they are "universal" and dont install as easy.
The "Anchor" mounts have excellent materials quality,(unlike the Dodge mounts) have OEM fit, and the prices are very fair.
I found a good set of mounts from www.rockauto.com
The OEM mounts let the engine and transmission rock so much in the engine bay, it will eventually short wiring harnesses, ruin the radiator, and eventually destroy the engine and transmission once the radiator starts leaking.
Particularly the autotrans models.
The damage for the autotrans models is caused when the cooling hoses rock and the tube that runs through the bottom of the radiator ruptures, allowing coolant and transfluid to mix.
This cocktail ruins the transmission clutches and bearings, and the engine cooling system will overheat due to oil rather than straight coolant being in the cooling system resulting in considerably higher internal temps and pressures.
Its easier to cool water/coolant than water/oil/coolant.
This will eventually take out the headgasket due to the overheating and breakdown of the headgasket material.
Manual trans models will have a good deal of engine/trans movement that will cause unusal CV axle angles, and will eventually start breaking exhaust manifold downtubes and causing a good deal of vibration when really bad, as well as noise from clunking back and forth in addition to wiring harness damage.
But, the manual transmission models will be unaffected by the above mentioned autotrans scenario.
Dont leave it like this..
If you havent replaced the motor mounts, even if they "seem" ok.. do so.
It will help your Neon last a hell of a lot longer, and save you thousands in repairs in addtion to alot of down time.
In addition, the mounts, when stiff, allow the car to drive, stop, and handle much better.
The only negative is the harder mount material will allow you to feel a bit more vibration, but the advantages far outweigh a small, nearly unpercievable vibration increases.
Hope this gives you some real serious ammo to defend yourself against a serious problem dodge refuses to admit.
4,347 views
Usually answered in minutes!
yes i'm having the same problem .2003 dodge neon in the Hayes service manual there is an adjustment for the upper and lower torque mounts I made the recommended adjustments it seemed to clear up the vibration for a couple of weeks but now it is back , and yes my next step is to remove that mount that is hidden for inspection , because you can not see it other wise
How to clean vibration
My car vibrates real bad. Took it to one shop and they said its the motor mounts, took it to another and they said they dont think its the motor mounts but the torque converter and then they said they have no idea what it is! Is it still OK to drive?
hi i have a 2002 neon it viberates in neutral and is real bad in reverse, it is driving me crazy, please help
×