I have replaced my fuel pump, filter, throttle position sensor, and relay on my 1992 jimmy. it runs but everytime it hits idle speed it cuts off. what could that be

This is complex to diagnose. Here are possibilities:

Here are some possible causes and solutions:

Fuel pump relay: A faulty fuel pump relay can cause the fuel pump to stop working intermittently, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check the fuel pump relay by swapping it with another relay of the same type in the fuse box. If the problem goes away, then the relay was the issue. If not, then you can move on to the next possible cause.

Clogged fuel filter: A clogged fuel filter can restrict the flow of fuel to the engine, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check the fuel filter by removing it and blowing air through it. If there is no resistance, then the filter is not clogged. If there is resistance, then you should replace the filter.

Vacuum leak: A vacuum leak can cause the engine to run lean, which can cause the engine to stall. You can check for vacuum leaks by spraying carburetor cleaner around the intake manifold, throttle body, and vacuum lines while the engine is running. If the engine RPMs increase, then there is a vacuum leak.

Faulty idle air control valve: A faulty idle air control valve can cause the engine to stall at idle. You can check the idle air control valve by removing it and cleaning it with carburetor cleaner. If the problem persists, then you should replace the valve.

Faulty throttle position sensor: A faulty throttle position sensor can cause the engine to stall when the throttle is opened. You can check the throttle position sensor by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across the sensor terminals. If the resistance is not within the specified range, then you should replace the sensor.

Faulty mass airflow sensor: A faulty mass airflow sensor can cause the engine to stall when the throttle is opened. You mentioned that you already changed the MAF, but it's possible that the new MAF is also faulty. You can check the MAF by using a multimeter to measure the voltage across the sensor terminals while the engine is running. If the voltage is not within the specified range, then you should replace the sensor.

Faulty ignition coil: A faulty ignition coil can cause the engine to stall when it gets hot. You can check the ignition coil by using a multimeter to measure the resistance across the coil terminals. If the resistance is not within the specified range, then you should replace the coil.

There are 2 relays in the relay box that could cause this problem the EEC relay and the FUEL pump relay the best test for EEC relay back probe the throttle position sensor for the 5 volts reference signal run engine and watch to see if you lose this voltage. and fuel pump relay install a fuel pressure gauge to fuel rail service port and check to see if pressure drops to zero.

Without knowing what car it is ...make. model and year this is a very vague question. A quick and dirty educated guess sounds like your timing has jumped ... if it's a timing belt, open the cover and check the timing marks ... or if it runs put on a timing light and look where the timing is ... sounds like it's firing after top dead center.

First off, some people hate to hear it but if it ran fine before you did this work, go back over what you did.

What fuel sensor and idle speed sonsor did you replace? Could you mean the IAC (Idle Air Control) and TPS (Throttle Posistion Sensor)? Both of these are adjustable.The Pridle in the IAC has to be measured and set to specific length and the TPS has to be set to a specific voltage with the throttle closed.

Now you could also have an EGR that is getting stuck open. The EGR is meant to open when the throttle os open AND at speed. If its got carbon build op causing it to not close all the way then it would die when you lift off the throttle.

bad fuel injectors! i replaced the pump and flue filter and did same thing idle for minute then kill.

2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve
this is all I could find

1 Inspect M.A.P. Sensor Faulty M.A.P. Sensor. 2 Inspect EGR Valve Improperly Functioning or Faulty EGR Valve. 3 Inspect Fuel Injector Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors. 4 Inspect Idle Air Control Valve Damaged, Loose, or Faulty Idle Air Control Valve. 5 Inspect Idle Speed Actuator Damaged, Loose, or Faulty Idle Speed Actuator. 6 Inspect Throttle Position Sensor Faulty or Incorrectly Connected Throttle Position Sensor. 7 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter. 8 Inspect PCV Valve Plugged or Damaged PCV Valve. 9 Inspect Carburetor Worn, Faulty or Damaged Carburetor. 10 Inspect Valve Burned, Worn, or Sticking Exhaust Valves. 12 Inspect TimingSet Slipped TimingChain or Worn TimingGear(s). 13 Inspect Fuel Pump Faulty Fuel Pump. 14 Inspect Camshaft Camshaft Lobes Worn. 16 Inspect Point Set Burned, Worn or Incorrectly Set Ignition Points.

CHECK THE IDLE SPEED SENSOR, UNPLUG IT AND SEE IF THE VEHICLE REVS UP A BIT. IF IT DOES, THEN REPLACE IT. ALSO CHECK THE FUEL PUMP RELAY IN THE FUSEBOX. HOPE THIS HELPS. .LET ME KNOW. GOOD LUCK

check you throttle position sensor first then fuel pressure regulator, then fuel pump. i have a 92 and had to recently do a massive overhaul. my rough idle was caused by a malfunctioning tps with a small exaust leak causing it to race and an intake manifold gasket. also check your idle speed adjustment settings.

EGR Valve