I have a 2002 jeep wrangler i just replaced my clutch my self. put it all back how it was but now i am stuck. the pedel is soft about half way and then goes really had. when i finaly got it to start it was ok but out of gear and when i pushed the clutch in it made a bad grinding noes. so what did i do wrong asemboling it? i had the fly wheel redon piolit baring changed i put the throw out baring on right and the bracket back on right. the disk is on the right way. so i am lost.
SOURCE: Transmission or Clutch problem?
Mike,
Just saw your issue. If you still have the problem, see if it resembles this situation. My 94 YJ 4.0 first had a hard time getting into 2nd. (...then reverse, then it would pop out of 2nd just going down the road) Changed fluids saw minimal crud. Was thinking a tranny swap was the only way to go. I contacted many places for ideas or solutions then I came across the this company in Tx that sells rebuilt trannys for about $1k. Now he was FAR LESS than all the other quotes for apple-to-apple, however this guy suggessted I check a couple more parts before I buought one of their transmissions. So I did and he was right. Here is what he had me do. Go buy the local shop manual if you don't already have it. You can find one at any Autozone, Advanced, O'reillys etc.(whatever is in your area) I had Chilton's. It worked fine. Remove the metal Inspection plates from around the gearshifts in the floor pan. Follow the main shifter down to the top of the Tranny. You'll see some bolts holding what appears to be a cap on. I think I remember there being 4. I removed the cap. You will find at the base of the shifter a steel knob or ball attached to the shifter. It is suppossed to have a plastic cap assembly snapped on the ball which you will see mates into a socket assembly on the top of the tranny. In simplest terms this is more or less the linkage point between the physical shifter to the transmission. On my jeep the cap and the female socket had just fallen apart. (...they're hard plastic - got hot, brittle and fell apart, go figure) The bad debris goes right down through the tranny and definitly was some of the crud in my fluid. I bought the parts local to me at Turner 4WD, Canton Ga www.thejeep.com. (and for those wondering... NO I'm not soliciting for them, they just tend to have parts some times that other companies don't have) I think I spent less than $15 on the 2 parts and the book is about $20. Total time for teardown was about 30~45 min and reassembly about 15~20. The only tricky part was getting the double dust boot off since I had never done it before. Remove the gear shift knobs, their locking nuts, and both rows of retaining screws. Slide the first dust boot off the gear shifts (soft rubber with metal ring). Then you'll see the next dust boot is almost vaccum sealed to the gear shifts at the knuckles. We found it was best to get that dust boot and inspection plate to slide up the shift levers and off leaving the levers intact. (others may have a different opinion, but I can tell you from other clutch and tranny work afterwards, it's so much easier to access the top 2 transmission bolts through this inspection plate rather than the ol' reach around from underneath) On that second dust boot (looked vaccumed sealed) we slightly split it on the bottom edge for easy removal. There are no issues from dust, water, or exhaust because it is a double boot. Hope this helps you. 5yrs on this solution now. Take care- Ken [email protected]
SOURCE: My clutch pedal has no resistance and I can't shift gears...
If you have a hydraulic clutch, it is conceivable that the fluid has leaked out. For areas of leakage check up under the dash where the clutch master comes through the firewall., or check down at the transmission at the clutch slave, which is the small cylinder on the transmission. You should also fill the reservoir immediately as well.
If yours is the adjustable type of clutch, then you need to have it ajusted immediately
If you would like to contact me again about this or other problems, feel free to do so.
Bill
ASE Master Technician
SOURCE: Transmission or Clutch problem?
Jeep #1: Sounds like a shift linkage problem. Possibly synchro forks are sliding back and forth on shift rails and are out of adjustment. This is internal and cannot readily be fixed without trans removal as far as I know. Hydraulic clutch system is non-adjustable. A new clutch should last at least 70K so, unless it was installed improperly, it should be OK. Check hydraulics for leaks & bleed. Clutch should "catch" about two inches off floor (not too low or not too near top of travel)
Jeep#2: Has a synchro or other internal gear problem... Symptoms are similar but gringing and clicking noises indicate worn or broken internal components!
Good luck to both!
SOURCE: push down on clutch pedal can't get car into gear
Likely, you have a hydraulic clutch system. Check clutch master cylijnder for fluid and leakage, check hydraulic line and slave cylinder for leaks. If fluid low or empty, bleed as you would a brake wheel cylinder. If full,have someone work the clutch while you watch slave cylinder to make sure it is moving clutch fork. If system full and little or no movement, the master may be "bypassing" internally (replace) Also, check pedal mechanical linkage. Not often but sometimes these parts can break! Could also be athat clutch itself is worn, but this does not happen overnight and you would have noted slip long before this!
SOURCE: 95 Jeep wrangler wont go in gear
if this is something that started suddenly, it could be a leak in your master cylinder or slave cylinder, or your fluid could be low, or there could be air in the lines. Make sure it's full of fluid, and get back to me.
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