I have replace the spark plugs , spark plug boots, and both ignition coils , had the ignition control module checked it is good. what else could it be, or are the ignition coils going bad even though they are new
SOURCE: 1991 honda accord "no spark"
There is a relay mounted way up under the dash on the driver side. It is about 1"x1"x2" and it says Mitsuba on it. This is the PGMFI relay, sometimes called the main relay or fuel injection relay. It is very likely the problem. You can buy another one, or there was a bulletin on how to repair it. You need to take it out, pop the cover off, and resolder the cracked solder joints on the pc board that the relays are mounted on. Really not that hard if you have a little soldering experience. If not, just buy another one, about 50 bucks.
SOURCE: 1999 Z24 runs rough when warm
Buy a couple bottles of gas line antifreeze.... the coil would have been my first suggestion... but it sounds like you have water in your gas as well.... gas line antifreeze is alcohol (not the kind you drink) it sucks up water tho.
Robert
SOURCE: Hesitation and stumbling.
Before you do that, check which thermostat it has in it, if it has one that is letting it get too warm or not completely up to temp when the computer think it should be, it would cause this. My 2000 crown vic did the same thing and thats what it was.
SOURCE: running rough, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor
First thing you need to know is which cylinders are missing. Then, don't forget there is an engine beneath the electronics. Do a quick test with a vacuum gauge and do a compression test. Check the distributor shaft for side play. If everything checks out good, then do electronic component testing. have a code check run (many parts stores do this free) and get a chiltons or haynes manual and follow test procedures in there.
I refrain from giving repair suggestions with problems like yours because people keep changing instead of testing parts. When I work on my vehicles or other peoples cars, I do testing to avoid buying expensive parts that most times won't correct the problem. At this point the most I'd suggest is to clean the mass air flow sensor wires with a Q-tip and carb cleaner...that often helps and is free. If you run into a problem with whatever you find, ask and I'll try to help.
good luck
Testimonial: "I followed suggestions, it did helped some what."
Park your Audi A4 on a level surface and open the hood.
Remove the plastic rivets that secure the plastic engine cover to your engine with the flathead screwdriver. Depending on your engine, there may be either three or four plastic rivets, which are all very obviously placed. Set the engine cover aside.
Firmly pull the ignition coil you need to replace up from the engine. Since it does attach to the spark plug, you will need to apply a little force. Be sure to pull directly up so that you do not bend the metal rods at the bottom of the ignition coil.
Unplug the ignition coil from its wiring harness. Depending on your engine, you may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the loosening latch on the wiring harness.
Insert the replacement ignition coil into the spark plug cylinder and push directly down until you hear a slight popping noise, which will indicate that it has been installed correctly.
Replace the plastic engine cover and secure it with the flathead screwdriver and the plastic rivets to complete the procedure.
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