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Anonymous Posted on Jul 30, 2012

40 amp ignition fuse keeps blowing

Car wont start, 40 amp ignition fuse blows when i turn yhe key on

1 Answer

nelson crespo

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  • Expert 103 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 30, 2012
nelson crespo
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Joined: Jul 30, 2012
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U have a positive wire making ground

5 Related Answers

emissionwiz

Marvin

  • 85242 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 20, 2008

SOURCE: 98 PLYMOUTH GRAND VOYAGER WONT START - BLOWS ENG FUSE - HELP

You have a shorted engine harness, this is not common but it does happen, heat and engine movement cause damage to the harness, this is most common on hi miler cars and vans, the only way to fix it is to start by looking anywhere the harness rubs, that is where the damage occurs.

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Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 18, 2009

SOURCE: ignition switch fuse terminal is blowing red 40 amp fuse when i try to replace it

A fuse that is consistently blowing is telling you that there is a short in that system. Don't attempt to bridge it or use a larger amp fuse or you will have a major problem. You will need to start tracing wiring to destinations to find the short. If while moving harnesses around problem ceases to exist, look at nearby items where you are working and try to locate what was grounding. Sometimes people will stop if short disappears, leaving open the possibility of it happening again.
If you are not comfortable working with wiring, then leave it to professionals who do this every day. It's not really difficult but requires patience and a good bit of knowledge to do this right!

pepsiman1967

Dorrian Wilkins

  • 216 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 11, 2010

SOURCE: What could cause a 40 amp ignition fuse to keep

There may be several issues causing you problem. One is that you have a bad connection either on the battery or on the starter or even a bad battery cable. I would suggest removing the battery cables, If it's side post a 5/16 wrench or socket. If it's a top post then it's likely to be 7/16 or 10mm. Using a terminal brushf009f91.jpg clean both the negative and positive terminals. But before reconnecting them, inspect the cables from the battery to their respective connection points. (The starter and the block) Make sure they do not have any broken insulation or dark discolorations in the insulation which represents excessive heat and a weak spot in the cable. Also check and clean the connecting points. Using a socket to remove the ground cable, once removed use a stiff wire brush to clean the surface of the block, then reconnect to the block. Then move to the starter, Using a 5/16 remove the solenoid wires and a 1/2 or 9/16 to remove the battery cable from the starter. Again use a wire brush to clean both surfaces and check the cable ends (eyelets) for a good connection. then reinstall the cables.
I am not sure how they tested your starter, however I have seen several auto parts stores use a diagnostic load machine that checks the starting system without the removal of the starter. If this was the test performed this is not an accurate test for a starter. The Starter will need to be removed, taking the positive cable loose from the battery, then remove the battery cable from the starter with a 1/2 or 9/16 generally socket and a 5/16 generally for the solenoid wire. Once the wires are removed you will have two 9/16(generally) bolts that can be removed with a socket and ratchet. Once the bolts are removed the starter will already be wanting to come out. Remove the starter and take it in to a reputable Auto parts store and ask them to perform a load test. This load test will give you the exact amp draw of the starter and solenoid and then they can tell you if it exceeds the manufactures spec.
Thanks, Dorrian


Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on May 25, 2009

SOURCE: blowing ignition a fuse

I believe you mean a 40 amp fuse? Wow! that's a dead short somewhere on a large wire. Could be difficult, or hopefully easy to find. There's always the smoke test option: Solder a jumper wire across the top of the fuse, making the circuit essentially un-fused and look for the smoke. Not the best method, but quick. Warning: if you do this, depending on where the short is, you could melt down the wire harness or possibly start a fire. Try this at your own risk! IT'S A "LAST RESORT" THING, WHEN YOU'VE TRIED EVERYTHING ELSE AND FAILED! Good luck.

butch welch

  • 147 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 24, 2008

SOURCE: blowing a 40 amp ignition

It is a grounding problem.Your motor does not have a good ground from the motor to the frame..Bad starter will not blow a fuse. Clean all of the grounding straps especially the big ground wire from the battery to the motor. Bet if you check that little ground from the battery to the frame it will be melted..because the main ground to the engine is bad..

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Blowing fuses is never an easy direct fix. Its rather a hunt needs some dedication. What I try and do is Figure out what is all on this 40 amp fuse, and one at a time remove something from the system and see if it blows. The key is knowing when it will blow for these tests to work. Keep removing what ever is on the system until it stops blowing a fuse. Then figure out how to single out items on that fuse. Whatever fuse it is the problem is on its path. Check all paths that go to items if no items are easily singles out. Replace as you find ,smash, green corrosion and shady connecters. Looks for heat by finding melted plastic connecters. These are clues. If you have a volt meter, then you will find the problem a whole lot easy, by figuring out what OHMS LAw is for whatever guage wire you are working with and a rough guess on length of known path. Using this you can find smashed and corroded wires quicker. As well as finding a short to ground and even short to powers in some cases. Good luck :)
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1995 Mercury Grand Marquis blowing 40 amp fuse as soon as I turn on ignition

It will help if you can identify the 40 Amp fuse that is being toasted when the key is turned.

I looked briefly at a fusebox diagram and found 3 circuits protected by a 40 Amp fuse. The Lamp circuit protects several circuits which have smaller rated fuses on each separate wire. The 40 Amp protection seems to be a safeguard if all the smaller circuits are active in total. Turning off the automatic headlights, should reduce power drain.

The next circuit is the Rear window defroster. Can easily pull 40 Amps, but once the 40 Amp fuse breaks, it should have no effect on the engine.

The last circuit, on the cars with Trailer Tow or Police package has a
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Have them check the fuel pressure. The Inertia switch could have tripped while the car was being repaired. It does not explain the wiring short, but can explain the no start condition.

Again, if the same 40 Amp circuit is overloading, identify the circuit with the fuse box diagram.
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It will most likely be a poor earth issue, make sure the earth lead between the battery and the body is good and clean and check the one between the body and motor.
Poor earth connections cause excessive current draw and will blow fuses.
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Fuses only blow if-Old,Overheated or you have a Short circuit.
That should be any easy fix,to the extent that there aren't many 40 Amp Fuses and you will need a wiring diagram to follow the problem from the fuse to the cause. If you know what fuse it is, you can guess,but I wouldn't recommend that,it will be time consuming and maybe costly ,if you don't have a test procedure to follow and throw parts at it.
Don't replace the fuse.Their expensive and will keep blowing.
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