2004 grand cheokee loredo over heats

make sure that there is no air in the system. Most vehicles have a reservoir and a fill location because the reservoir is below the top of the engine. take the cap off the highest point and then run the engine from cold. the air should work its way out. keep an eye on the antifreeze reservoir level top up as needed. once the bubbling has stopped replace the cap, and see how it goes.

indicates a head gasket problem
at idle the gasket is sealing but under load is allowing compression into water jacket
do a compression test
check cat converter for failure blocking exhaust
run fault codes to check for mixture control problems

Radiator fan faulty..

First off when did this start? Was it prior to the Thermostat replacement or after? What was the purpose of relacing the tstat?

From my experience use only a high quality t-stat that maintains a constant temp. is the best solution, it's easy to try and save a few bucks I'm just as guilty as the next guy however I've had many years of experience in the automotive field, throughout the years I've replaced hundreds if not thousands of t-stats and all are not even close to created equal. My opinion is not to go to the big box stores to purchase an off branded t-stat these t-stats open very inconsistantly and tend to have temps that fluctuate greatly. Commonly these economy t-stats are rated at say 195 degrees however they tend to snap open and closed very fast and erratically causing the temp to suddenly drop and then snap closed when the coolant falls below the opening temp. And again reopen not at the 195 always but sometime not opening until say 205 or 210 and then again snaping open and the cycle continues. Buy a premium t-stat and you'll be glad you did.

Your temp should run about 210 degrees (f) If you need to keep the heat on to keep the temp down likely the radiator is partially obstructed either externally (leaves or other debris) or internally (rust or calcium deposits).Most over the counter flushes don't do much but it's worth a try. Generally the best option is to have it professionally flushed or replace it with a known good one from a scrapyard.

There is an inlet and outlet rubber hose going to your heater core. At operating temp the 2 hoses should be the same hot temp, if not, swap them making the inlet the outlet vise/versa and see if it makes a difference. Run vehicle like that a few days and this will make sure the core is unplugged. If this does not work there is a thermal relay in the blower compartment that may be faulty. To get at that you pull out the fan blower under dash and it will be right next to it. You may need to access the mounting screws for it through the hood and air sytem filter. I will put my money on a plugged core, even though it was flushed!!

Could be several things,

1. thermostat
2. water pump
3. fan motor is bad (is the fan running when at temp?)
4. fan motor relay

Is it running hot all the time or just when setting idle?

Given your high guage temps of 210 degrees and high ambient temperature of 100 degrees, your engine's stalling can very likely be linked to either one of these three causes: 1) vapor lock; 2) percolation; or 3) PCV malfunction. Here's a really good diagnostic article that precisely addresses this issue of yours:
http://yourhandymanzone.com/Your_Handyman_Zone_How_To_Pages_Vehicle_Car_Zone_Cars_Trucks_Vans_Engine_System_Engine_Stalls_When_Hot.htm

Hope this helps! Brad

Take it in for diagnosis.. .seems to me you don't know anything about vehicle maintenance... perhaps you need to replace the thermostat and flush the cooling system... not a bad idea.

Go the Cheaper Route First and Go back to the Parts store and ask for a Cooler Thermostat. Try that and let me know what you have got.