My car runs normally throughout all of this.
Check this about the four most common Check Engine Light scenarios and what to do:
* The Check Engine Light turns on and off or flickers.
If the Check Engine Light comes on in the city but goes off on the freeway, then the fault is present during city driving conditions. Pay attention to whether or not the vehicle runs or drives any differently when the Check Engine Light illuminates. If vehicle performance does change, drive the car as little as possible and take it to be checked by a service professional as soon as possible. If there is no change in vehicle performance, you can drive home, but have it inspected as soon as possible. In this condition, you run a risk of the vehicle dying or not starting.
* The Check Engine Light comes on and stays on.
If the Check Engine Light illuminates constantly during driving with no noticeable driving or performance problems, there is a permanent fault in the emission control system. When this happens, the computer that controls the emission system usually has a backup program that runs while the fault is present. (These backup programs are often referred to as "limp home" mode programs.) You should get the vehicle serviced as soon as possible, but in most cases, the vehicle will continue to operate, though you run a risk of it dying or not starting.
* The Check Engine Light illuminates, stays on, and there are performance problems.
This means that a vital component of your emission control and engine management system has a serious problem. It usually involves a component or system needed for the vehicle to run at all. In most cases, drive the vehicle as little as possible. In many cases, the vehicle is not safe to drive at all -it could stop or stall out at any moment. It is best to pull over to a safe place and have the vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for a thorough inspection and repair.
* The Check Engine Light light comes on and blinks in a steady pattern while driving.
Don't confuse this steady pulsing of the Check Engine Light light (usually one or more flashes per second) with a flicker (see above). The Check Engine Light may stay on steadily or it may flash when the vehicle is accelerated. This is very serious. There is a severe failure of the emission control system that is causing the engine to misfire to the point that the catalytic converter is damaged each time the Check Engine Light flashes. It may mean that the catalytic converter is overheating to the point that it will glow red or, in extreme cases, start a fire on the underside of the vehicle. Immediately pull over to a safe place and have your vehicle towed to an automotive diagnostician for repair. Vehicles can be severely damaged and even destroyed by fire if this condition is ignored for too long.
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What are your thoughts on the other gauges moving erratically at the same time for several seconds? Do you suppose it could be a computer problem? The battery, timing belt, and alternator have all been changed without any difference. Sometimes check engine light on and sometimes off, sometimes display just goes black. I appreciate your help.
If your check engine light come on sometimes, I suggest scanned the car computer in order to know what fault code is stored there; additionally, I suggest to check wire gauge harnesses connections (backside instreument cluster) and test grounds.
Ok. Ty! Will keep you posted as to what did (hopefully) works! And yes, I will leave good feedback.
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SOURCE: ROVER 214i When idling coolant
This is often indicative of a failed head gasket, exhaust gasses could be getting into the coolant from one of the cylinders, it is quite common on this engine.
SOURCE: My MINI '03 is screwed up
have you checked transmission oil?
I am not familar with MINI's but it sounds like either your transmission oil is low or is too thick (cold weather could do that) that the computer is safe gaurding you for destroying your transmission or you computers messed up.
Recommendation: get the car to a shop ASAP before you do serious damage.
SOURCE: 2006 Mini Cooper S temperature gauge in red zone
Bad head gasket or cracked head
Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c
SOURCE: All of a sudden today the dashboard lights (mph
It's hard for me to understand all of what you said, but I'd start with checking all of my fuses. Look for a blown fuse. Replace. If it blows again, you have a short somewhere.
SOURCE: temperature gauge back and forth between normal
the fan comes on and off based on the "temperature sending unit" thats a thermal switch mounted on the radiator .. it is normal for the temperature to fluxuate as the fan turns on and off .. if it is allowed to get too hot before turning on then the temperature sending unit should be replaced ...while the car is moving the fan may never come on and isnt needed as long as air is flowing through the radiator .. as long as you are not loosing coolant then the temperatures are probably within proper range ... a sticking thermostat can also cause increased temperature range fluxuations .. that will show up as large swings of temp while driving .....
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