Its a 3.8 GL, I failed emissions, first replaced the trans vehicle speed sensor, major problem, solved, had it tuned up, plugs, wires, etc. Ran a bit rough, almost like it was running on 5 cylinders but not too bad, light came back on after about 35 miles driving, brought it back. Said he replaced the idle speed sensor and some valve thing. Light came back on after about 20 miles.
I am wondering if a bad battery, perhaps a bad plug or egr sensor could be tripping the codes. This has already cost me close to $1000 and I can't afford more? I would really appreciate any ideas, this is the best vehicle I have ever owned and really don't want to, nor can I afford another. BTW, it has 240,000 miles on it and believe me, it could easily go another 100,000.
Same guy, ran better before tune-up, was also better on gas. Showed too high and too low on test. Same guy, ran better before tune-up, was also better on gas. Showed too high and too low on test.
no compression test was done, the idle speed sensor and egr control codes came up but both were replaced. no compression test was done, the idle speed sensor and egr control codes came up but both were replaced.
Did they tell you WHY you failed emissions? What particular reasons? Some states, ANY engine trouble code at time of test - even simple minor or however rare and intermittent- is a failure AND if your check engine light - bulb - is burned, is also a failure.
Did they tell you WHY you failed emissions? What particular reasons? Some states, ANY engine trouble code at time of test - even simple minor or however rare and intermittent- is a failure AND if your check engine light - bulb - is burned, is also a failure.
what code is being set and has a commpession test been ran by the milage that is being stated iwould like to know the compession of the mtr befor going any fruther what code is being set and has a commpession test been ran by the milage that is being stated iwould like to know the compession of the mtr befor going any fruther
Wow, sounds like your mechanic screwed up. Ran rougher after the tune up is a bad sign. Also, you don't just replace sensors without finding out why they fail. For instance, and EGR code could be a sensor, or it could be the control solenoid, or it could be the EGR valve. Which was it, and what did the mechanic do to determine which it was? I'm willing to bet he threw a part at it based on a code instead of using the code as a starting point to correctly diagnosing the problem. Good luck with that guy. Switch mechanics to a dealer. I know from experience at a Ford dealer for 10 years, that replacing the rear plugs on that car is a pain in the **** and can easily be screwed up.
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sounds dumb but here in maryland people with older vehicles have problems passing emissions test. sometimes fresh oil change can help also possibly vehicle is in need of a tune up including plugs wire cap rotor pcv valve and fuel filter. one other thing could be the catalyst converter might not be cleaning to its full potential. hope this helps
It depends. Are there codes in the computer now? Has it bee reset since you replaced the input speed sensor? If the codes are still in there, the transmission may still be in limp-in mode.
Your transmission is computer controlled. Trying to diagnose or repair it without the ability to interface with the computer that controls it about the same as surfing the internet with no monitor. If you push the right buttons and click your mouse just right, you might get to the page you are looking for (not likely, but possible). However, when you do get there, you still won't know it....
Jose, I don't know if this will give you the answer you are looking for because there are many things to consider here. The exhaust gas recirculation valve (EGR) is one of the main things involved in reducing NO emissions. This valve is controled by the power control module. (PCM) This is your vehicles computer. The PCM monitors the vehicles speed and will command the EGR to open when the vehicle attains a certain speed, which is why the ASM test being done is recorded at two different speeds. At 25 MPH your vehicle failed the hydrocarbon (HC) emissions limit and this could be for a number of reasons. When is the last time you car was tuned up? Old spark plugs, wires, clogged air filters, oxygen sensors, leaking injectors (personal experience) or the PCV valve could be contributing to the results of the test. I guess that the easiest way to go is to tune up the engine replacing the spark plugs, wires, air filter and the PCV valve and don't forget to have the oil changed at the same time. Only then should have the vehicle retested and see what the results are. Should it fail again you may have to consider having the EGR or the catalytic converter replaced depending on what portion of the test fails. If the NO fails I would consider the EGR. If the HC fails then I would consider the catalytic converter. Good luck with this.
Normally the Part on the transmission is a female connector and the part you got out is from the cable. just replace the cable. However, this connector on the transmission should be replaceable as well but will require a Transmission technician to do it.
your transmission oil pan is at the bottom of the trans, the heat shield you are looking to remove is on the right side of the vehicle above where the axle goes into the trans unit. You should find the sensor mounted there with one bolt and one wire plug, hope this is helpful, let me know
Same guy, ran better before tune-up, was also better on gas. Showed too high and too low on test.
no compression test was done, the idle speed sensor and egr control codes came up but both were replaced.
Did they tell you WHY you failed emissions? What particular reasons? Some states, ANY engine trouble code at time of test - even simple minor or however rare and intermittent- is a failure AND if your check engine light - bulb - is burned, is also a failure.
what code is being set and has a commpession test been ran by the milage that is being stated iwould like to know the compession of the mtr befor going any fruther
Same guy doing emissions as repairs? Ran rough after tune-up, was it worse than before tune-up?
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