The wheel bearings have had to be replaced on my 03 rio , 3 times any suggestions as to why ??
I've replaced the rear driver bearings 4 times in 6 months. The last time they went I was going 75 miles per hour on interstate 20 in the middle of nowhere. I had to be towed at a cost of over $400 to get to a place for repair. We found the outer bearing race seized up tight to the spindle. So a complete replacement of everything was necessary. Incidentally none of this occured til I had over 100,000 miles on the 04 rio sedan. I am now very skittish about driving any distance from home with the car even though all seems to be fine. I am hoping the spindle was just worn out before. Since it is now all new (even the backing plate) I can't imagine what could cause future problems. The other side has never given me a problem (passenger side rear). I used genuine kia parts this time as well with hopes that this will solve my problem. But I can tell you it will take some time to gain confidence in this car again if it is now okay. I've replaced bearings frequently over the years in many cars but never found any as cantankerous as this korean wonder. If anyone has any feedback regarding this issue please write.
I myself went through a process close to this with my 2003 Kia Rio. The bearing on my rear drivers side welded itself to the spindle. meaning everything except my brake assembly and the drumb had to be replaced. after getting a new spindle and bearings grease and oil seals i put it back togother. two days later i started to have the problem again. the thing is you cant tighten the lock nut too much its something an experianced wheele worker has to do its all about how it feels when you tighten it, everything still needs to have room to move like the bearings for example, if the lock nut is to tight they wont spin youll end up losing alot more than just bearings again if its put togother wrong. 2nd when you work with bearings when you do one side you do the other, dont want to replace half a set of moving parts, and chances are if one bearing is going out the other one will follow closely. 3rd make sure you have enough grease in there, not enough will resault in friction and heat. remember everything needs room to move good luck
Make sure when you put the nut back on you tighten it just enough to seat the bearing if its to tight or to loose it will go bad again. tighten the nut as you spin the drum once it snug back it off a little make sure the drum turns freely. you should be fine
I tried that but found it was no good in short order. What I finally found was the need to precisely pre-load the bearings with a drag scale. It was necessary to find the drag on the oil seal by itself and add the specified drag as given by kia then tighten the lock nut to get the total drag kia specifies. Once I did that it was fine. Too much drag or too little will cause rapid bearing failure. Wish I knew this the first time. By the way I also got some bad bearings from O-Reilly's. Watch out for their chinese stuff. The bearings were pitted and that accounted for one of the failures early on. Brakes must be completely not touching the drum when drag measure is done. I couldn't get over how critical the drag pre-load is on these. An 8th turn too little or too much on the lock nut will do the bearings right in. Kia is throw away me thinks. Or for mechanical fanatics.
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No thats not the case if you dont torque the bearing properly and make sure you replace the race along with the bearing shuld be n problem...
It is actually caused by a bad spindle. this happened to my best friend numerous times also. if the spindle is not replaced when the bearings are it will just keep happening.
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