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Posted on Oct 08, 2012
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1998 chevy blazer when we replaced brake booster and now it will not shift out of park whenits started

We replace brake booster in a 1998 chevy blazer. we started the blazer and it will not shift out of park, but when only lights on gear shift in on it will shift.brake light is still on and there are not brake after bleeding them.

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Stephen

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 21,873 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 08, 2012
 Stephen
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Joined: Jun 22, 2012
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Not sure I am following your question, or maybe questions.
If you can not shift out of park with the key on, the brake switch on the pedal may be faulty or out of adjustment.
If the warning light is on, it could be the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder, or the parking brake switch.
If you have no brakes after you try bleeding the master cylinder, the rod inside the booster may not be connected correctly. If you replaced the master cylinder along with the booster, you would need to bench bleed the master before installing it in the truck.

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 31, 2008

SOURCE: brake light on 2001 chevy blazer LT 2wd

When my blazer did this they had to replace part of the wiring harness in the steering wheel. It took forever for them to get the parts because we live in nowhereville, but once it was in it works again and no problems. I had to take it to the actual chevy dealer because none of the other places had a clue. good luck.

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Anonymous

  • 48 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 06, 2008

SOURCE: emergency brake light on 92 chevy blazer

There is a pressure switch, that gets depressed or released due to pedal position. When you engage the PB the arm is depressed...releasing the pin-like pressure switch.

Examine the pedal itself...looking where it 'touches' the car.
Depress the pedal....while watching this place. Look for a 'pin-like' switch that is allowed to extend when the parking brake is engaged, and that would be depressed in when the arm is released/disengaged.

Once you have found this, it is likely that either the:

  1. arm is slightly misaligned and does not depress the button..ie. the light stays on
  2. if it is lined up...then perhaps it does not depress the button far enough...press it to see if they light now goes out
  3. once you confirm that the light will go out..then you can adjust the physical location of the switch so that the brake pedal arm, more fully engages it
If you need other help on this, just ask...ask there are a few other solutions..but this is most likely the cause, and is a reasonably easy fix

Anonymous

  • 92 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2008

SOURCE: replace the front turn signal light bulb

you have to go under the front of the car. very easy to fix.

Anonymous

  • 6982 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 09, 2009

SOURCE: bad brake booster

If you know for sure that the booster has failed, you need to unbolt the master cylinder from it, (sometimes you can move it away enough to not even disconnect lines.) Then unbolt the booster from the firewall, disconnect the pedal linkage if connected to booster. Remove & replace booster assembly and everything else you you took off. If you didn't have to remove master cyl you are done. If removed, bleed master before putting back into service!

Anonymous

  • 82 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009

SOURCE: 1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

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Have it examined when you change the booster.
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