Hard clutch pedal

Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

2 people job. one presses down on the clutch pedal while the other opens the bleed screw. then closes of the bleed screw before the pedal operator lets the pedal up . The process is repeated until all the air is out . Watch the fluid level in the reservoir.

please state model of vehicle and year .Is the fluid level dropping ?not a landrover freelander by any chance

The clutch master cylinder must have gone out, the seals in it have failed. The clutch master cylinder (next to the brake master cylinder) gives you hydraulic pressure so the clutch pedal can operate the clutch.
You can buy a new clutch master, a rebuilt unit, or yours can be rebuilt with new seals. Save time and money and buy a rebuilt or remanufactured unit. Once installed, you bleed the system down at the clutch slave cylinder, mounted on the transaxle.

Now you need to bleed the clutch at the clutch slave cylinder down on the transmission to restore the clutch.
Put a wrench on the bleed valve and open it, then lightly close it. Now have someone pump the clutch a couple of times to build pressure. Then while the clutch pedal is slowly pressed down open the bleed valve, then close valve as pedal gets to floor. Repeat this bleed process until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out the bleed valve. Then you should have a good clutch again.

You have a leaking master or slave hydraulic clutch cylinder. I recommend you replace both

ABS isn't so much a thing as a system, but if you want to know how to bleed your brake system you place a tranparent tube on one of the brake cylinder valves/nipples, then imerse the end of the tube in a small bottle with some brake fluid in. Then you get someone to press the pedal down slowly as you open the valve/nipple. They should pump a few times slowly, then with the pedal down close the valve/nipple. Check to see if the pedal is harder. You should do this with both front and rear brakes, as they are seperate lines. The ABS is a system that ballances the brakes to stop slewing across the road when you apply the pedal too hard. The part attached to the master cylinder is actually a servo, which should have a tube go from it to the inlet manifold of the engine. This causes a vacuum in the servo, which when applying the brakes helps the brakes by taking away some of the pressure needed. If this pipe is broken or not connected, then your sevo won't work. There is an easy way to check your servo. Press the pedal down, then start the engine, you should feel the pedal go down a bit more. If it does not, check the servo tube.

Definitely a hydraulic issue. Iknow you said they were both changed, but its usually the master & slave assembly that go faulty on the Freelander. Both parts come filled with fluid and pre-bled and only require fitting, no bleeding. Check with garage to make sure they did not split / bleed them.

Here is a link to a free online owner manual for this Landrover. Might find it in the manual.

http://www.autoownermanuals.com/manuals.item.2280/Land-Rover-Freelander-Owners-Manual-2000.html

Clutch plate is worn down to nothing and/or throwout bearing needs replaced.