My 2003 jeep liberty will stall then shut off the engine and the RPM's jumped from 0-7 after the engine shuts off. The battery light comes on and off so does the oil light I changed the oil because it was two quarts low. It ran good after I changed it until the next day. I assume that a sencer went out any ideas.

The tapping is the valves hitting against the buyer upper part of engine. The stalling is most likely the computer shutting down engine. You might have engine damage. The tapping comes and goes according to engine rpm the higher the rpm the louder the tapping. If I was have it towed to u mechanic and have them run test engine might be beyond repair

stalls?
ok stalls are complex. there are over 50 causes.
no , im no listing them..sorry.
ill not tell you to read a book, but they do tell you how to diagnose all engines. made... no kidding.
so what is it.
so the CEL did not come on as the engine SHUTS DOWN.
then that means it never fully stalled. (a key fact)
but was the throttle dead, at the SHUT DOWN? key fact 2.
if the throttle is dead, at stall.
then that is the ASD relay cutting out.
if you had scanned it at the stall it be obvious with DTC's stating that fact. in fact 8 reason there are for that.
if not asd drop this try this.
1: lost spark, never tuned up in 10 years, so spark ends.
2: lost of fuel pressure.
there is my guess, 3 things. (i skipped bad engine, (loss of compression hot)

Got P03xx codes, DTC errors. that be top of list
here is the ASD list

http://www.fixkick.com/Jeeps/ASD.html

fixing stalls with no scan tool is like juggling blind.....
buy one or rent one.?

Vincent when you put the key on you have a check engine light that come on if not no power to the computer could be asd relay auto shut down or problem with the fuse box try disconnecting the battery for a minute something it reset the computer

all stalls end in CEL check engine light on. that is normal
but CEL glow. when engine running , means you had a failure, and it stored DTC error codes, so scan it.
lots of causes. huge list.
get a tune up , tops list.

SCAN it to be sure all sensors work. running.
all fuses in car good.
by stalls , i assume the engine stalls and engine RPM is 0 RPM.
the stall cause the whole dash to light up, all the warning lamps come
on (self test) oil , charge , CEL. come on.
what is important is the stall and the cause.

i will tell you the 3 ways.
lost electrical power to engine EFI system (seems not)
bad engine, (lost compression hot)?
bad spark , spark died.?
bad fueling, lost all fueling (starves and stalls or floods and misfires horribly and stalls (black spark plug tips are big time clue)

if non eof the rings a bell.?
get the car serviced.

this car is newer nicer car, you (we) can scan and drive and log data.
allowing faster easy diagnosis.

Check you alternator output . Low voltage will cause shifting problems

Sounds like a ground problem allowing a back feed issue.

Make sure your battery is grounded to the engine and frame.

There may be a problem with the low oil pressure alert sensor

The ignition timing is off.
The ECM (Elctronic Control Module) is responsible for that.
Take the Liberty to AutoZone to have them scan the PCM code (free) and ask for an explanation print-out (also free). You might want them to clear the error code afterwards, too (yes, free).
Let us know what the codes are and a summary of the print-out.

CK the mass air flow sensor. First sensor on duct coming out of air filter.

As far as the guage issue it is most likely a problem with the body control module, have a trouble code test run on the BCM to determine the issue, the stalling is caused by the loss of the idle strategy learning when the battery went dead, the best thing to do is the following procedure I use to clear this issue.

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls (or very low idle) near or at idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.