A garage replaced the power steering pump on my 1998 Dodge Stratus because it was leaking and hard to turn. Got it back, still leaking. They tightened a hose and replaced an "O" ring. Still leaking. Asked a mechanic to look at it when I got the oil changed and he said that a "Spring"? was not replaced on the pump when the new one was installed. He said Dodge sells a ton of them because they have to be replaced everytime you replace the pump. Any idea what spring? And why would a spring cause a leak? How would I know if the original pump was bad or there was just a leak as there has been prior to replacing the pump? THANKS!!!
SOURCE: 2004 dodge stratus SE
This is a dangerous job if you do not have the proper equipment for compressing the spring that is around the rear shock. I do not recomend performing this job without the proper equipment. Unloading the spring without it compressed can cuase injury.
If you have the proper equipment this is how you do it.
REMOVAL - SHOCK ASSEMBLY
NOTE: Access for the nuts attaching the rear shock assembly upper mount to the vehicle is through the inside of the trunk.
SOURCE: 1999 Dodge stratus shutting down
hall efect sensor or distributor etc.. ignition related or computer related maybe
SOURCE: 97 dodge stratus power steering leak
I had a somewhat related type of problem with my 2000 dodge stratus. It had poor steering and handling on curves. After 55000 miles with this problem I decided to replace the brain box, not the TCM. Now it steers more easily and takes curves at higher speeds well. I was amazed because I avoided unnecessary costly repairs. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: cant get spring of rear brakes to change them
There are brake spring tools that can be found at your auto parts store. I would use a screwdriver and long nose pliers when the proper tool wasn't available.
SOURCE: replacing serpentine belt 2002 dodge stratus
Did this on my 2002 Stratus 2.4L. I agree with other poster, you do have to remove the passenger tire and wheel wall to do it, but the tensioner travels clockwise.
Note: I offer this solely as a description of how I accomplished the task on my vehicle. It should not be taken as me advising anyone else in any way on how or whether they manage to repair their own vehicles.
1) Engaged parking brake, loosened lugs on passenger front tire.
2) Jacked-up and placed jack-stand.
3) Removed piece of black under-carriage which surrounds the oil filter and attaches to front bumper. There are at least 10 plastic push-pins to remove and I managed to destroy half of them in the process.
4) Positoned belt over lower pulleys and tensioner (as best as possible) then used a bungee to hold the top end of belt up while I worked under the car.
5) Used a 3/8 ratchet and inserted into square hole attached to the tensioner, disengaged the tensioner (moves clockwise) then used a brace to keep the ratchet handle in that position.
6) From top, removed bungee and finished placing belt over alternator, checked the position of entire belt, reengaged the tensioner, and replaced wall and wheel.
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