Torque converter need to know if I need a replacement or if I can flush the one I have

Michael, If your vehicle is a normal automatic transmission it will have a torque converter. If you really want to attempt a complete flush, I will post links on how it is done, you will still have to change the filter to ensure a thorough job. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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Automatic Transmission FlushDo it Yourself ProceduresNO SPECIAL TOOLS OR...
Automatic Transmission Filter and Flush on Jeep Cherokee
2001 Ford F150 Transmission Service Flush Torque Converter Oil Cooler Pan...

since tranny out to repair pump seal and bushing have it pressure checked and flushed and install new torque converter at transmission bench build facility.

I wish you can. Yes you need to remove the torque converter. I'm just curios, Why do you need drain the Converter ?

A Service Department as a Hyundai Service Department typically uses a "Fluid Exchange" machine (approx. 7 quarts of Hyundai SPIII fluid) to do a flush. There is a drain plug at the bottom of the transmission (24 mm bolt) to drain it. However, this method is not entirely/completely effective. This drain plug only empties the pan, not the torque converter -- so you're only replacing about 3 to 4 quarts with this method (torque converter does not drain). So, once you've replaced the 3 to 4 quarts this way, there's still contaminated fluid in the torque converter which will circulate back into the rest of the transmission. RECOMMENDATION: Have a certified technician do a flush (fluid exchange).

CODE PO741 - TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH SYSTEM STUCK OFF WHEN THIS CODE COMES UP YOUR TRANSMISION FLUID TOO LOW OR FLUID + FILTER NEED CHANGING YOU HAVE A RESTRICTION IN TRANSMISSION LINES TO RADIATOR CHECK TO MAKE SURE LINES NOT BENT IN ANY WAY.TCC FEED VALVE OR TCC REGULATOR VALVE IS STUCK OFF DUE TO SEDIMENT OR BINDING.THE OIL PRESSURE SCREEN IS CLOGGED OR DEBRIS IN THE OIL PAN.TAKE CAR TO A TRANSMISSION SHOP GOING TO COST YOU.YOU NEED TRANSMISSION FLUSH AND YOU NEED A FILTER AND FLUID CHANGE.ITS NOT CHEAP FIX BUT YOU CAN CHANGE FLUID + FILTER YOUR SELF TO SEE IF IT HELPS BUT BEST TO HAVE SHOP TO FLUSH OUT TORQUE CONVERTER. PUT NEW TRANSMISSION FLUID IN THE ENTIRE SYSTEM SOUND LIKE OLD FLUID CONTAMINATED WITH SEDIMENT NEED TO GET IT ALL OUT TRANSMISSION.

In order to flush the fluid from the torque converter, once you have the transmission pan removed, start the engine and run the shift lever through the gears, then back to park. Shut off the engine. It would make sense to flush the old fluid from torque converter as you are replacing with a fresh screen and fluid.

If this is a feeling like going over rumble strips then it is coming from the lock up torque converter. Usually having the fluid completely flushed and an additive such as shudderguard added will take care of the problem within 250 miles (usually sooner).Otherwise the torque converter will need to be replaced.

Use only Genuine Mitsubishi Car Care Products Diamond ATF SP III to avoid Torque Converter Shudder and failure. I learned the hard way. My local repair shop, a NAPA repair shop, used Ultralube Transtex ATF Premium Dexron III/Mercon Performance. This fluid caused violent Torque Converter Shudder which if not immediately flushed out could have led to failure. After flushing and replacing with Diamond ATF SP III, the Shudder is eliminated.

Dear Matt: When you install the torque converter on the transmission, you need to spin the converter carefully by hand while pushing gently inward towards the transmission. As you are rotating the converter, you will feel kind of a "BUMP, BUMP, BUMP" as the converter splines meet up with and slide into place as they enter the torque converter. Once everything is properly seated, the converter should spin smoothly on the transmission without the need of supporting the end of the converter.
When you are installing the transmission, as you get close to mating the bell housing to the back of the engine, you can reach through the area where the starter nose would project into the bell housing and rotate the torque converter. As you are closing the gap between the transmission and the engine block, make sure that the torque converter can spin without any interference at all. Once the bell housing and block are mated flush you should still be able to easily spin the converter with a few fingers..........
You, at that point can align one of the converter bolt holes with the flex plate (flywheel) holes and put a bolt in by hand. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS UNTIL ALL THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED! At that point in time you can tighten the bolts.
The fact that you are experiencing the problem you have described, leads me to suspect that you don't have the torque converter fully seated. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING! The converter, providing you did not try to bring the bell housing up flush in spite of the converter not moving, should be ok.
Good luck. If you make good, write in, I need some good reviews in this "Fixya" spot which I just joined. Right now I am listed as an apprentice. Kind of demeaning when you are nearly 60 and have been in the trade since 68. But, I have to pay my dues to get in and I must prove that I know which is my ????? and which is the hole in the ground. Good luck!

I am sorry to bum you guys out, but this usually means the piston in the torque converter is bad. The converter needs to be replaced along with a transmission flush.