Brake rotor and front or rear?
Okay, remove the wheel then remove the brake caliper and move to side do not allow to hang on the brake hose, use a hook to hang off spring or set aside. next remove the caliper bracket, two bolts at rear of bracket to remove it.
next you will use a hammer to remove the rotor.
NOTE: the way the brake rotor was designed was a bad one the hub in which the rotor slides over and the wheel studs slide into holes on the rotor is bad the hub diameter is almost the same size as the diameter of the seat of the rotor that slide over the hub and what happens is sometimes the rust build up on the rotor seat locks the brake rotor on the hub. i do not know if you are reusing the rotors or replacing them, no sure what job you are doing . the rotors to take off you will need to tap on the rear of them with a little force and turn, hit and turn. you will need to see if they break free or if hard beating and spraying into the rear of them is needed with wd40.
Alot of these rotors also have two threaded hole on the face of the rotor near the studs so that you can screw two bolts into holes to help pull them. use wire to tie caliper up and also use a c-clamp to push piston into calipe to remove caliper if needed, Do not remove brake hose, there is no need to open system, here is a picture of the rotor coming of the hub, also there may be clips on the stud holding rotor on remove them use cutters or pry off do not need to reuse , they are to help in holding the rotor on during asm, if you want you can buy them and reinstall them but never reuse them.
You didn't state front or rear so I will send both links on how to replace,here's the front rotor.Here's the link to rear rotor removal.
SOURCE: '04 GMC Yukon Denali Check Engine Light
Did u put in fuel shortly before the light came on? I own 2 service centers & the most common situation with "Check Engine" lights are because the fuel cap wasn't re-installed or not tightened. When you refuel make sure it "clicks" when putting back on. We don't charge for a "Code Reading" but a dealer will, don't go there. Go, like the others suggested. If it is the fuel cap & you re-install it correctly, the light will go off after a short drive. Good Luck. PS-Don't panic when the "Check Engine" light comes on unless it blinks, if that happens don't drive. PSS-RE: Murray's, Auto-Zone.......If it's a "Code" (the reader will give a #) the code book will tell you the problem. PSSS-Some1 please have Troy W's Mommy & Daddy take away his keyboard. Just because you can put together a "Lego" car doesn't make you a master mechanic. You only repeated what we said except you have a "Napoleon" complex against any1 plugging something in to a vehicle. It's the same as plugging in a light @ home. In conjunction with "kinder" nine out of ten time in my experience it usually is the oxygen sensor(s) which would be about right with the year model
SOURCE: 2005 gmc yukon xl denali service ride control
it has to do with your air ride suspension best bet is take it to the dealer there is probably a problem with a level sensor. hope this helps you
SOURCE: My GMC 2005 Yukon XL
Here is a link on how to fit your rear hatch issues.
http://gmcowners.com/gmc-forum/showthread.php?t=12619
Thank you for using fixya.
SOURCE: check airbag light came on
first check the fuse for the air bag, if its good... take it to the dealership to find out what is the issue.
SOURCE: Need to reset oil life
it depends........ if you have controls on the steering wheel or not. If you do, then go through the menu until you see OIL LIFE then hold in the reset button (looks like a backwards "L" with an arrow on it). Hold the reset button in until it reads OIL LIFE RESET or OIL LIFE 100%. If you don't have controls on the steering wheel, turn key on (engine off) and depress the gas pedal to the floor 3 times, now turn key off. crank engine up and see that it has reset, if not try it again.
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