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I have replaced the coil,fuel pump, checked the head and intake gasket and all of the relays are fine.Charging system has no problems and no visible damage to wiring harness
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If it is either sensor you will get a check engine light. So check this, A faulty fuel pump relay can cause the car to come to a complete stop while driving, its like running out of gas. It may be getting hot and shutting fuel pump down. Try swapping another relay of the same size, For the pump to see if its a bad relay. It may be is shutting the fuel pump down, when it gets hot.
Check if your pump is working. Check the fuel pressure. If you have fuel pressure at the engine''s fuel rail, check if your injectors are pulsing. Sounds like gas is not getting to the engine or not getting into the cylinders.
The upper intake plenum is leaking coolant into the cylinder heads. The head gaskets on this motor are awesome. So, chances are it's the upper intake plenum. You can check this, by removing the vacuum hose that runs between the upper plenum and the brake booster. Stick your finger in and try to touch the top of the lower intake manifold. If your finger is wet it the upper plenum. You might as well replace the lower intake gasket while you're performing this work because they are prone to failure also. Use a shop vac to pull any coolant out of the cylinder heads. Get brand new spark plugs because the old ones are probably fouled. Once you get the plenum and gaskets replaced, remove your fuel pump relay and leave the spark plugs out and turn the engine over repeatedly for about 10 seconds to push any excess coolant out of the cylinder heads. Then, put the spark plugs in and turn the engine over for 10 seconds again. This will burn excess fuel as coolant out. Then, replace the fuel pump relay to allow fuel to be pumped into the heads. Car will smoke for a few when it fires up, but will clear out quickly. CHANGE THE OIL! Twice within a week if possible.
Have you verified that system has been "burped" of air? That the fans kick on? Check radiator hoses for kinks. You can try running without the thermostat to see if that helps and can identify if the thermostat could be a problem. You may need to check your coolant mixture too. Sounds like you have reduced flow or restriction in cooling (heat exchanger) as it runs fine at cooler temp but can't keep up when it gets warm. New parts don't always equal working fine parts.
while you had the head off, did you happen to check bottom side between the intake, and exhaust valves (on all 4 cylinders) for hair line cracks...? also may not apply but i made a guy mad and he put a ping pong ball in my gas tank and it will give you the same symptoms..... it will run until pump picks ball up to close off the suction, then when it sits, it will float back to the top and start up again run until it does it again.... hope this helps....
sounds real easy either a bad idle air control solenoid or more likley a blown throttle body gasket. to test fro a blown gasket, with engine running and cool spray carb cleaner or brake cleaner around base of tb were it bolts to intake. when it hits the bad area, should idle down and be normal for a second or 2. iac is possible,try this first since its so common and let me know
i have the same problem on a 98 jimmy 4.3 4x4.
i replaced the fule pump and have good pressure.
new wiers & coil (good spark) no MIL & no codes.
will only start when primed. it will run & drive all day
with no problems.
but once it has been turned off (warm or cold) i will
have to prime it once again to start it.
i have another engine that was in it before it spun a bearing.
it ran fine so i know all parts are good.
i swaped the mass air flow and throttle body but i still have
to prime it everytime to start it. am i forgetting something?
should i swap out the intake with the injectors?
any help would be sweet. thanks.
how to replece koil packs?
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