Trd 2002 v8 tundra, had to drill out lock, cleaned out all shavings etc.,reinserted at acc position, lubricated before reinsertion with Lithium Grease , engine started, key feels perfect in ignition, but will not shift out of park now. All was fine before this happened, key(s) had stopped working all together when trying to start.
SOURCE: key lock cylinder won't come out....
cars have a lock position to protect the car from being stolen by theives. When we park the car with the wheels turned to the sides it gets locked in that position and the key can sometimes nbe hard to take out. Try moving the steering wheel in both directions as much as possible while pushing in the key and trying to jiggle it to turn. If you can get it out, the next time , park your car with the wheels facing forward. I hope this works.
SOURCE: Trouble replacing ignition switch.
Normally we would replace the lock cylinder and housing at the dealer.....but if it were my car I'd uses a punch and hammer to slam that pin in and remove the cylinder. It's worth a try first before having to replace the entire housing.
SOURCE: 1999 Toyota 4Runner - key stuck in ignition
2 things either your switch is wore out and needs replaced or the cable from park to your switch is wore out and need to be replaced could be fixed easily at a small shop even shouldnt cost over a 100.00 for both to be replaced.
I had a wire connector on the front of the engine that had so much tension, the wires broke. I didn't notice until a wet day when the car wouldn't start (and the Check Engine light was on). (The error code was related to an Emissions error.) The connector is located on the engine, front, just left of center. Hope this helps!
SOURCE: My 2007 tundra went dead. The ignition won't start
There are several possibilities ranging from a defective starter, to bad cable connections, to the onboard security system locking out the starter relay, or an aftermarket accessory interfering with the starter circuit, or a locked-up/damaged engine.
I have had vehicles towed into my shop for similar complaints when the only problem was that the customer was using a cheap duplicate key that they had made at the hardware store that did not have the required computer chip in it.
I have also had vehicles towed in where the customer had replaced the battery and did not have good cable connections or forgot to connect one of the wires that was supposed to to get hooked-up to the battery connector.
Then there are the questions: Are you getting any kind of "clicking" noises when turning the key or is it completely dead? If it is clicking, WHAT is clicking? Is it the starter motor itself that you hear or just the starter motor relay? Do you have battery power at the starter "S" terminal when turning the key? If not, is the transmission selector in "PARK"? Does the shift indicator on the dash indicate that the transmission range sensor is in "PARK"? (possible defective transmission range sensor) Are there any fault codes stored in ANY of the modules connected to your onboard computer network?
It is really hard to say without being able to see the truck.
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