91 chevy k 1500 rear axle wheel wobble

2400 a 2500? seems so.
find a real ASE shop, and win.
yes clunks never just go away, they get worse as the wear accelerates..(like slugging wall hard each day hurts more )
due to velocity is faster for more wear (traveled, and goes worse FASTer) aka as doomed, wise is not going to far like this.

REAR: 101:" I use an electronic stethoscope to find mine.
rear clunks,. I've had them all in 60 years driving! you name it.bing.
no miles on truck told mine was 2004 1500(5speed m/t)
I used to restore 4wd cars as 2nd job. (for years) I am a gear head.
I had 4 bay shop on my property. upto 2009

• bad U-joints !
• bad brakes rear.
• bad emg, brakes top hats bat, gee.
• bad axle bearing , I just fixed, 5 years ago.

the microphone (my tool) clamped to axle 3 places, 4 channels mic.
left rear , center and right rear
the right is 10x louder.
so I , remove the whole real brake assembly. and bingo bad brakes seen. or in 2nd case all that is good but if I man handle the axle end with my trusty lever (crow bar) I SEE ILLEGALL play in the AXLE bearing it 3 planes, in and out and up and down and forward read.
I also man handle THe Ujoint, no play at all allowed L/R/Top down
or other suspension parts bad in rear
a real ASE shop levels all that in and find excessive play or even makes the noise doing so.
I can drive or buddy does and my head phones on and 4 channel knob, and can hear the noise. them move mics to hone in to loudest spot. this method avoids injury. finding any noise on a moving car
did you do the safe jump on bumber test, left and right rear.
trucks are easy.
real bumper pickup truck 2500 I guess.
jump it hard even 2 mean or one fat LOL. hard
CLUNK>?or push hard hands on one side of rear fleet side. rear. end. and see if transverse bar CLUNKS.
or take car to a body shop that does body and suspension work
and watch the magic tests. the first. lots or what is called man handing and levering and visual inspections first. and brakes too. rear.
and the drive shaft (aka prop shaft)
there are even youtube showing how to lever parts even with a 2by4
to find parts bad, easy. in suspension or the drive shaft.
on stands or lifts./

NOISE is complex topic and noise can be telegraphed.
fooling even the best techs. anyone..

2005 TrailBlazer Clacking and Clunking From Rear End ...

? 4:10
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HIA151KxImM
Mar 14, 2013 - Uploaded by sameasiteverwas122
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Trailblazer Driveline Noises Discovered - YouTube

? 2:27
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GLhTUoHWdNM
Nov 4, 2013 - Uploaded by Roland Caston
the Trailblazer has developed some nasty noises. ... loose in thedifferential and the right front strut has torn through it's bushing.... How To Install Replace Front Axle Disconnect Housing 2002-09 GMC Envoy Chevy Trailblazer ... How Much Abuse Can a Trailblazer Take Part 2 : How to Replace a Rear Axle ...

Noise coming from back on trailblazer - YouTube

Ensure the wheel nuts and Axle nuts are properly torqued to the specification. Lift up the front wheels, place supports under the car and do the following:
- Sit if front of right wheel, slightly move it right and left and feel any abnormal noise if coming out of it. If click-click or Tuck-Tuck sound is observed it could be due to the excessive play in the tie rod end, rack end, ball joint wheel bearing or U joint. Next hold the Tire with your one hand at the top and with other hand at the bottom. Shake the Tire inside out and feel any noise or play. If play is observed, it could be the worn out ball joint or the wheel bearing. Now hit the Tire at the top with rubber hammer and observe any rattling noise coming from near the center of the wheel. If you could listen to the extra noise it could be due to the dried up caliper pins. Grease the pins with graphite grease. If all is found fine, similarly check the left wheel and repair as necessary.

I would check for a bad wheel bearing on the rear, also check the u-joints on the drive shaft.

yes. if the axle is bad and binding it can cause the front end to vibrate because it gets out of balance.

it happens from time to time that the axle get bent
but usually after a hit to the wheel end
curb / ditch / or accident

It could be as simple as the exhaust bumping the rear end.
Or the trailer ball hitch rattling inside the receiver! (I had one customer wanted me to weld it so it wouldn't rattle any more!)

Slide under there, don't jack up the truck it will change the normal ride clearance. There should be a few inches of clearance between the exhaust pipe and the rear end. Move it around see if it bumps the rear end or the frame.

It could also be a bad U joint, grab the drive shaft near the U joints and move it around, if either is bad you'll see it moving. The caps that connect to the drive shaft have needle bearings inside them, if they're bad it will move or clunk at the cap, near the rubber seal.

Or it could be a little excessive end play in the rear end. Some cars/trucks are noisier than others. USUALLY not a big issue. It could clank for years. Just annoying.

SOULDS TO ME LIKE AXLE IS TRYING TO COME OUT MAY HAVE BUSTED THE AXLE CLIP

The noise is caused by the axle button being worn out, this lets the axle move back and forth and clunk, this is a unique problem with C clip retained axles, it is a noise issue but will not fail and cause any more damage, in order to fix it you must have the axles pulled and the diff carrier checked for excess wear where the axle retainning C clip rides, if the carrier is ok then replace the axles.

How about the U joint? If it's shot, you will hear a clunk when u start up. You probably already know, but jack up the back of the truck (both wheels off the ground) make sure u blocked front wheels front and back so it can't roll, use jack stands so u don't get squished, truck in neutral, e- brake off, climb under, grab driveshaft and twist back and forth to see if there is slop or play in the rear universal joint. Let me know what u find. Good Luck, and don't get squished (or squashed). countrycurt0