We were told by Canadian Tire that the block heater is leaking.. we are confused if we should change the block heater or block core? when we had the water pump replaced we had heat for 20 minutes once all antifreeze was lost we lost our heat.. can a block heater leak antifreeze?

Subaru Legacy. No year told nor what engine is there

nor VIN 8th digit USA is engine code and not told
parts for cars are based on those facts.

my guess, winter engine block heaters of many types even those sold by maker Suburu

what heater models work best or fit.

some pans are aluminum and magnets useless.(mag heaters generic sold in all autostores on earth
google that.
or how to do it.
or is this a parts buy question.
why not buy it from OEM dealer
personally I only like the heater water tube LOOP hose kind
has heater and pump and 2 hose and and AC plug
that fits to a heater core hose/ pipe (one of them)
nothing works better.
for sure if at -30F. top of engine freezes first.! oops.
have shop put it in, tell them which kind
there 3 kinds, above pump kind(always works)
core plugs (horrible if it leaks, engine wrecked)
pan magnet heater.safe if works/fits some don't.

some engines, none told have brass screw port for the OEM heat, now this works and will not leak as it screws in and 100% secure, but seen on only current engines 10 years or so. but no year told
the new engines have no core plugs in the blocks
so makers added the cute brass dummyy plug for oem heater option./?
the oem Subaru site will tell you what is sold for options/
if car is not too old ,but no year told so no examples possible, guessing all years

THE COOLANT SYSTEM ON MOST CARS ARE VERY COMPLEX,. NOT IN THEORY EVER, BUT IN PRACTICES SO MANY PLACES TO LEAK.
1996 NO VIN TOLD OR WHAT ENGINE IS THERE,.

USA CAR HAD 2.
3.3 L EGA V6
3.5 L EGE V6

FEW USEFUL FACTS TOLD. JUST LEAKS.
THERE ARE 2 WAYS TO FIND IT AND YOU DID NONE.(i SAY STOP GUESSING, (BUT CAP AND THERMOSTAT ARE SLAM DUNKS.)
1: HOT ENGINE TEST, HAS 15PSI UNDER THE CAP
AND ANY LEAKS , HOOD UP IS SEEN CLEAR AS DAY EVEN SQUIRTS 3 FEET AWAY FOOLING YOU.
DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR AND BLOW WATER ALL OVER THE ENGINE BAY OR OVER HEAT IT.

NOT TOLD IS COOLANT ON THE GROUND OR IN THE OIL PAN OR ON PASSENGERS FOOT WELL OR TOES.OUCH.
2; USE AND READ LEAK DOWN PRESSURE TOOL.
DONE COLD. ENGINE AND 10 X MORE SAFE BUT THE TOOL COSTS MONEY TO BE SAFER.

#1 TOLD AGAIN BY ME HERE VAST TIMES.
FIRST GET THE Rad FULL.
NEW GAS CAP $5
NO 27 YEAR OLD THERMOSTAT IS GOOD. EVER.
7 YEAR EOL DESIGN LIFE SPAN IS SPEC. SO ....A>>>>>$25 FIX, AND NO CAR FIX IS FREE..
(ASIDE OF LOSE CLAMPS)

KEYOFF COLD ,RAD, ADD 50% AF FLUID FULL
i USE "PRESTONE ANY CAR" AF FLUID TODAY.
ZERO MIX ISSUEA WITH OTHER BRANDS !!!!!!!!
OK RAD IS FULL. FOR SURE.

HOOD UP. ENGINE COLD
KEY ON START IT FOR UP TO 30 MINS.
GET ENGINE FULLY HOT,. NO NOT BOILING
KEY OFF IF IT OVERHEATS TOO SOON
KEY OFF NOW. i USE SCAN TOOL AND SEE PID ECT AT 180F+ NOW AND SAY OK THIS BLOCK IS NOW FULLY HOT. (NORMAL)
THE CAP NOW IS AT 15-PSI AND IN FACT
ANY LEAKS THERE ARE MOSTLY ARE SEEN NOW
IF YOU GO SLOW AND JUST LOOK.
THE HOSES ALL
THE WHOLE ENGINE CAN LEAK
WATER PUMP
HEADS TO BLOCK LEAKS(HEAD GASKETS0
IF V6/8 ENGINE, NONE TOLD CAN LIKE AT INTAKE MANIFOLD FRONT OR REAR (PUSH ROD ENGINES NOT OVERHEAD CAM ENGINES
WATER IN TO THE ENGINE OIL PAN OR THE TRANNY.
WATER TO PASSENGER FEET HEATER CORE BAD.
LEADS TO GROUND ARE EASY TO FIND, LOOKING
TO OIL PANS WE SEE LUBE AS CHOCOLATE MILK.
THE FRONT OF MY 3.7 LITER , THE FRONT COVER OF ENGINE, HAS WATER PATHS. THAT SURE CAN LEAK.
THE CAR RUNNING WATER FOR COOLANT
AND IT FREEZES OUT SIDE AT JUST BELOW 32F
THE ENGINE CRACKS IN HALF.
CRACKED BLOCK AND OR HEADS.
DOOMED, SO NEVER JUST WATER
ONLY RUN 50% AF ONLY
THE TRICK IS WATCH IT LEAK HOOD UP.
HURRY NOT.
YOU WILL SEE IT OR IS A HUGE PROBLEM.
OR IS HEATER CORE LEAKING
OR SEE RAD LEAK LIKE MAD.
FIND THE LEAK PARKED IS BEST.
GOOD LUCK !!!

You should probably pressure test the cooling system and the radiator cap to make sure it's releasing properly at the correct pressure, and to identify where any leak may exist. I would suggest that you bypass the heater core for the test first, then test once it's repaired & reconnected.

I've heard of this before due to a leaking headgasket, or small crack in the head/block as well as a bad radiator cap that won't release at the correct PSI.

It requires alot of steps.. Best to buy a Haynes repair manual online or at your local auto shop. Canadian tire sells them as well.

http://www.haynes.com

Hi, this is the heater core for your rear heater. If it's leaking from inside the box, it's likely the core is bad. Please let me know if you would like instructions for replacing the rear heater core. A new core is $92 at autozone, but I would shop around. Make sure you specify the rear or auxiliary when ordering a new new core, as the front core is different.

there is a valve in the hot line to the heater core, it may not be opening. or you might have to disconnect the heater hoses and flush the heater core, stop leak will some times stop up core since tubes are very small

check closer to just underneath the firewall--it could be a smaller problem than a heater core--Ford 4.6--5.4 engines have a tube just underneath the intake manifold that the rubber hose goes bad and it will leak towards the back of the engine.Lets hope so-what i hear its very expensive to change a heater core in an Expedition.

Water control valve is not opening. cable may be off due to heater core replcement

Theresa,

Plug in your car and listen for a "sizzle" sound. If you hear this then your block heater works.... if not..... Call Canadian Tire!

first.... open the hood... yes the hood.... look on the firewall... you will see two rubber hoses going into it... that is where the heater core is located... generally it's on the passenger side but sometimes ..... in my dad's van for one it's mounted in the center... dodge's better idea i guess. while you are under the hood .. examine the hose connectors.... if they are hose clamps easy... if they are special connectors you will have to visit autozone or canadian tire or auto parts store to borrow the tool.... usually have to leave a deposit....
now... climb under the dash on the passenger side and look up... if there are sheilds to remove them... you will need to do that... i often remove the glove box to give me even better access and to see better what i'm doing.
the duct work is often held together by screws or clips. make sure you remove all the ones necessary ... front and back... it's usually a split shell so you only need to lower the one half......... pull the duct work carefull away from the heater core ... look for bolts hold it on ... usually again on the outside by the firewall... before take the bolts out use the tool to remove the hoses. you did drain some antifreeze first right ? .... it's tough to get all the water out so before you pull old core out either be fast about it so you don't spill antifreeze into the car... or tilt it up to drain some fluid out on the outside first.

remove the old core... install the new one... bolt it on... reinstall the duct work.... clean up... reinstall the hoses... refill the rad and leave the cap off when you start it up to add more fluid....

almost done... pinch the hoses gently when the motor is warm to move the air out of the system.... after you install the rad cap... take it for a drive.... when you get back wait till the rad is cool again and take off the cap... fill the rad up again... repeat that a few times to compensate for air bleeding out of the new core...

Robert

P.S. i did a heater core on a 69 dart i used to own.... basic car no options... took me fifteen minutes lol