Truck idles good and if i punch it it goes ok but normal light to light town driving it has a miss or hessitation fuel pressure is good ign. contrl modual tested good

Are you sure it's not the other way around? Usually when the idle drops and pressure follows and as the idle increases - the pressure does too. Typical behavior - as long as the pressure remains in the "normal" range it should be OK.

Is the check engine light on ?
Fuel pressure ok ?
If it has a steady miss on one or more cylinders you'll need to figure out which cylinders and what is missing = spark-fuel-compresson.

Your friend could be right. Normally if you have a cylinder miss or a problem with the transmission you would get a check engine light and a trouble code. Low fuel pressure may not show up like that.
You may want to check fuel pressure at idle and on the road.

With the engine running try spraying a couple shots of carb spray into the throttle body. If the idle smooths out then your running lean. The next step is to check fuel pressure, vacuum leaks, and try unplugging the upstream oxygen sensor. It could be stuck rich which would make the computer drive fuel trims lean.

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Check the fuel regulator at the end of the fuel rail. If if is not functioning properly it can cause the the problem that you are describing. Unfortunately other than doing an R&R with a known good regulator I do not know of a fool-proof test for this component.

Sounds like fuel pump is getting weak. Need to have the fuel pressure checked when its acting up.

sugar in the gas

i have a 2001 chevy z-71 5.3L. I keep getting a random/multiple misfire code for cylinder 1 . I have replaced plugs, wires, coil pack(only on #1 cylinder)., and fuel pump. I still keep getting the cylinder 1 misfire code. I put truck on a scanner and watched the cylinders. # 1 misfires at idle but quickly stops misfiring at around 1000 rpms. you can here the engine miss at idle but truck runs great on road . anyone else ever had this problem?

ok. oil ight is probably nothing more than a faulty pressure switch.You can have pressure checked at same screw in port. 15psi is ok...just. very cheap to replace. Ign control module is probably the cut-out fault. You cant really test it; repair by substitution is the trick.

I'm sure you have installed a fuel pressure gauge and monitored the fuel pressure while the problem is occurring?Another diagnostic tool which is easy to do,is while the problem is occurring,unplug one sensor at a time beginning with the Mass Air Flow first,.if it uses one.Many times,not always,depending on the sensor,if the sensor is taken out of the picture as far as what the PCM is seeing,like unplugging the MAF,the PCM will substitute the missing sensor output with a generic value that will allow the engine to at least run,and if unplugging for example the MAF,the engine idle speed returns to normal,you know you're onto the problem.You didn't mention if the engine ran ok other than the idle problem.As far as checking for vacuum leaks,i use something like brake cleaner or WD 40,more of a liquid,and it does sound like a vacuum leak.Plastic intake manifolds do develop nearly invisible cracks that open up more with heat.Revsisit the possibility.And as for the PCM,it is possible,but more likely a mechanical problem.Lastly,remove an O2 sensor or two before the catalytic convertor,run the engine and see if anything changes.Cheap way to verify the catalytic convertor is flowing and not restricting engine airflow,as i have seen bad cats cause misfire codes and strange problems.Good luck.