SOURCE: 2000 blazer 4.3 hard to start (fuel problem)
Do you have the fuel tester hooked the in the overgrown air valve on the fuel rail in the back of the engine? Or do you have the fuel line unhooked in the back and hooked to the pressure pump? You want the fuel pressure to be in that 60 lb range so if you are hooked into the pressure valve on the fuel rail allowing fuel to go through, then I am betting it is the fuel pressure regulator. To get to that, you have to take the throttle body off and take the plastic plenum that covers the injector packs. On the back of the mount where your six pack of injectors are sits the pressure regulator. If it is faulty then it is dumping fuel instead of holding the pressure like it should.
Get a Chilton or Clymer manual and it shows you in pretty good detail how to fix it. I've done it to my 98 S10 with the same engine.
If you unhooked the fuel line so you are losing pressure from the line back to the pump then I would say your pump is letting fuel back to the tank when it shuts off. My money is on the first possibility though.
Good luck
SOURCE: 1996 f150 fuel pump
Hello;
You may have a break in the wire inside the tank to the fuel pump. I have seen the wires disconnect as the pump is installed.
Rich
RPM Northwest
SOURCE: 2000 elantra no power to fuel pump.
could be a bad earth or [ground]
the power wire ma be brocken or have a loose or dirty connection
you neeed to trace it along its lenght to determine the fault!
so start at the pump & work back
Cheers rob
SOURCE: fuel pump- 2002 GMC Sierra
The fuel sending unit only controls the gas guage not the fuel supply to the vehicle. The pump is twelve volts. If you are not getting twelve volts on the PUMP wires check the fuel pump relay and the key circuit to it. If you have to cycle the key three to four times rapidly to get the vehicle to start check the fuel pump pressure at the regulator for manufacturer specs. An injector stuck open will also cause same problems you are describing.
SOURCE: have a 2001 gmc jimmy...drove home gas gauge read
chevy and gmc trucks have an on going problem with this,turn the key on,and get a rubber mallot or a hammer and hit the bottom of the fuel tank a couple of times,this will unstick something in the fuel pump/sending unit.
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NO MY PUMP HAS2 WIRE HOOK UP THEY BOTH READ 5 VOLTS A PURPLE WIRE
o.k., first you have to know if the pump cycles on for two seconds when the ignition is turned on. after those two seconds the pump powers down until the engine cranks, when 12v is returned to the pump to start the engine. you need to disconnect the pump harness and hook up a test light between the two wires. turn on the ignition and watch the lamp. if it turns on for two seconds, good. then crank the engine; the lamp should be lit the whole time that the engine is cranking. if neither of those things happen, first you'll need to check the pump relay and its fuse. I just swap the relay with some other temporarily, doesn't really matter which other relay you use. if you still get no juice at the harness then you've got to check for voltages at the relay. with the ignition on you should have two live contacts at the relay socket.
the fuel pump relay actuation ground is controlled by the computer. the pump receives 12v from that relay. the only reasons I could imagine that you'd see only 5v at the pump are a bad, resistive relay, poor connections, poor grounds on the pump side of the harness. let me know what you find out.
I FILED AND CLEANED UP MY GROUND AT THE PUMP AND THE PUMP COME ON AND THE TRUCK STARTED I DONT KNOW IF THE PROBLEM WILL COME BACK OR NOT WHEN I WAS TESTING THE RELAY I HAD VOLTAGE ON 1 TERMAL ONLY WELL RIGHT NOW ITS WORKING I WOULD LIKE TO THANK EVERY BODY THAT HELPED ME
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