I have a 87gl wagon, when pressing on the brake pedal it goes to the floor recently replaced master cylinder and front calipers with pads and bleed the system, the engine sputters also when driving pressing the brake pedal it feels like only the back brake are being used. Not sure if there's a booster problem or purportional valve problem.

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

your on the right track just make sure person on the brake pedal is holding them to the floor when you open bleeder and its closed all the way before the pedal is lifted, repeat till all air is out and you have a good stream of fluid coming out. and make sure your bleeding from furthest wheel away from master cylinder =1 passengers side rear,2 drivers side rear 3 passengers side front 4 drivers side front make sure you reset proportion valve just below master cylinder a rubber plug ,push it all the way in you'll know you got it when brake lite on dash goes out. I really hope this helped ,IF IT DID LET ME KNOW.
Woody

I would start by bleeding the air out of the brake system starting at the longest line first. Check for fluid in the master cylinder . IF you have problems bleeding then undo the lines at the master cylinder and using your fingers a valves bleed the air out and prime the master cylinder first then bleed the system

well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.

1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Hi Friend:

#1) Check to see if the Master Cylinder Rubber on the Cap is Not Calapesed.And fits Even in the Metel Cap.

#2) Fill master up to MAX Level, Bleed Brakes Start with the Passenger Rear,Then Drivers Rear,During the Bleeding Make Sure to Keep Master Cylinder Full off & On.Bleed each Cyling until you get good Clean Fluid from the Blleeder Valves. USE DOT-3 Fluid.And Make Sure theres no Air Left in The System on Each Cylinder

#3) After the Rears are done Next Go to Passengers Front Caliper ,Bleed The Same Way here.Of course you'll need 1-Person Pumping Pedal during Whole Process.

#4) If you Are Still NOT getting Fluid out Of your Bleeder Valves in Front.

#5) Making Sure your Masters Cylinder is Full.You'll see bleeder Valves On MASTER CYLINDER. Loosen bleeder valve while someone is Pushing Pedal to the Floor.The Tighten before The Pedal is Let off.Keep it to The Floor Each time you Open Bleeder Valve.

#6) Do both Sides.If you still are Not getting Fluid from the Front Brake Bleeder Valves. Then Your MASTER CYLINDER is BAD Or your FRONT Brake Pads are Worn Down so Far your Caliper Piston is Bottomed Out.

#7) If this is the case Replace Pads 1st ,If not Fluid Still .

#8) Replace the Master Cylinder.

#9) After Replacing Pads or and Both,Flush out your Fluid from the Complete System until you get Clean Fluid from All your Blleeder Valves. With No Air In The System As Well.

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Thanks For Using FIXYA From: d_hubbs

Its not air leak, you must bleed air from system. You have to bench bleed the master cylinder, then bleed each caliper starting from the right rear, then left rear, then front right, then front left. If you've already done this, then do it again, you must have air in your lines or they would work. The only other thing could be your rubber lines are bad and swelling(absorbing the hydraulic pressure) but they would have to both be completely mush.

You may have a leak in the booster or master cylinder. You can put a pressure tester on the system to test for leaks. It does sound like you have an air leak.
You can try to bleed the master cylinder, then slave cylinder, then brake lines.

bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.

Either you did not bleed the brakes properly or they need adjusted. (rear only) Front most likely are disks. If you put pads on the front and spread the caliper pistons, you should pump the brake pedal 10 or 15 times to move the pistons out. Some ABS systems are notoriously hard to bleed.

Add brake fluid in master cylinder.