My 99 chevy 2500 sounds like it has an exhaust leak while accelerating cold but qiets down a little after it warms up. Seems also like it may surge a little while going up hill

SOURCE: Chevy 350 - oil pressure drops at high RPMs

good evening and welcome to fixya
sounds like you might have an issue with your oil pump losing pressure. if there are no rattles knock or clangs and the engine is not burning oil, make sure to check the dipstick for signs of a glittery metal substance that could be signs also of the engine having issues then the pump is probably your issue. there is a spring inside the pump that you can actually take out and change for a heavier spring that would actually stop this but it is easier to swap in a new oil pump. i do have one question for you though, is this correct an s-10 blazer with a 350 in it? if so has the engine been built at all or is it stock? once you swap the pump go back to running a 10w 40 oil the motor will run better on that and easier, yes your right though the heavier oil does help but if everything is good then it will hender power unless the engine is fairly well built. let me know and i will help you solve your issue. thnak you

SOURCE: surges or bucks at steady speed, 40 to 50 mph

change fuel filter have injection system cleaned

SOURCE: slipping auto trans in 94 chevy truck

actually i would say no because there are 6 cyl transmissions with 4 frction plates and v8's have 5 friction plates in the forward planetary gear

SOURCE: 1973 chevy truck vacuum diagram

Pretty sure I have the diagrams etc but they are buried away and would take a week to find.
BUT: The setup on that engine for that year is fairly uncomplicated and you could pretty much do away with all the emission controls etc and get the engine running really well. (just block off all vacuum ports on the manifold and carb except for the one to the transmission and power brake booster) I'm not really familiar with the edelbrock carb (looks like they are based on the old carter AFB carb though. I am partial to holley carbs, and the old quadrajet carbs)
What you need to check first though is your fuel pressure and delivery. You should be seeing 5-7 psi at the carb. With the fuel line disconnected, and attached to a rubber hose diverted into a container, you should see at least a gallon of fuel pumped at idle before the carb runs out of fuel. Make sure you don't have any leaks in the fuel line coming from the tank...with a pull type pump (mechanical pump on the engine) a leak often will not drip, but will allow air to be drawn into the line while running. Make sure that if your carb has a filter in the fuel inlet, it is clean. Make sure that the fuel line filter (sock) in the tank is also clean.
It's likely you have an egr valve on the manifold, If so, you can temporarily block it off with a small piece of metal from a soda can installed between the valve and the manifold. That will prevent it from working and if it has any leaks, blocking it off will eliminate it from the system. If that helps, replace the valve.
Your ignition system is fairly simple. a single 12 volt lead goes to the battery side of the distributor. You can block off the vacuum advance temporarily and just set the initial timing at about 8 degrees advanced. (depending upon fuel quality, you can go as high as 12) . The ignition module is not "testable" usually though they either work or they don't )
You do need to check the wires that attach to the pickup under the mount plate to make sure they are not partially broken and grounding when the advance moves the plate.
Back to your carburetor... If you are test driving without the air cleaner housing in place, it is possible that if there is a heat pad mounted to the underside of the hood, it can get drawn down against the carb inlet and cause problems. If the air cleaner housing is in place, make sure that the inlet door in the snorkel is opening or, disconnect the vacuum hose going to it as default on those is wide open. If you have tried everything I've outlined, you may have to go inside the carb and make sure that the power valve isn't frozen or that the float level isn't set too low.
Once you get it running right, you can begin to look for the diagrams etc you are looking for, but at least it will be running and usable.
The only other item that could give you a problem like the one you have is if the cam timing was set incorrectly at the factory (doubtful but it can happen) but I really would not worry about that just yet.
Hope something here helps!!! Good luck!

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SOURCE: I am having problems with my '93 Chevy pickup

Theres lots of things that can cause this problem but try a couple of things like start the truck when its dark and see if you see any sparks any where because mayby a spark plug wire is off or worn through. Listen for a sucking sound because there could be a vacume leak. What I kinda think it is though is a clogged injector. If you could tell a difference when you changed the filter it could be that dirt got passed the filter and lodged in the injector...If it was me I would go ahead and replace the fuel pump. If I had to bet on it... I would bet its the fuel pump. If it ever set for a while theres a good chance the fuel turned bad and that trashes the pump. It could be a stopped up catalytic converter. Could have water in the gas. Also check the oil for signs of water ( foam or white residue) in case its got a blown head gasket or cracked head.
It might have jumped time. Let me know if nothing else i will tell you a quick way to check your timing chain.