Dash lights not working, shift console lights not working

multi function switch seem to be the problem

You don't say what the year make and model is.
Have you checked for power at the dimmer switch for the dash lights ?

Do you have the dash dimmer light control rheostat turned off by mistake?

pull the dash light dimmer rheostat and test it, chances are it is open and is the problem, If the dimmer has power to it and the lights don't work then the dimmer switch is defective, the fuse is most likely not a problem, it would be the instrument cluster fuse, remember any fuse being blown indicates a shorted circuit.

I had to replace my dimmer switch when this happened to me even though I thought my dimmer switch was fine

My 2003 Elantra had a problem when I would use the turn signals. The dash lights would flicker on and off and if you jiggled the arm of the dimmer switch it would turn the dash lights back on. Over time it got worse. AND little did I know it also made the tail lights and front parking lights flicker on and off!!! So it was not good to say the least.
I took the switch out and opened it up. And inside where the turn signal components moved to make their contact connections, there was a build up of electrical contact grease at the bottom making intermittent contact between two points (I'm assuming gravity and vibration over the years moved the grease down there and built up). I cleaned the excess contact grease from the area. Reassembled the switch. Put back in steering column. No longer having issues.

Cv as in cv joint? Look around the wheels for a dangling connector near a c.v. boot.

have you by accident turned down the bright and dim switch near the head light? probably you were cleaning the car interior and might have shut it downcheck the dimmer switc by the head light seitch

possibility of a dimmer switch malfunction, did you check all the fuses under the dash and also under the hood. check thuroughly because you might have missed one.

And where your dimmer switch is, us a stanely knife on the corner and it should pop out.. peice of cake, the dimmer has 2 wires in it so you can take a volts tester to see if it gets current when your head lights are on. Alos if it is getting current only on 1 side you can bypass it for another test by just running a wire from both points.

Does your other dash peices light up like your ac controlls and your clock?
if so it might be part of the dash cluster has just burnt out, bulb wise and 3-4 screws around the cluster and it pulls out also. All hondas are like legos and they come apart Very simpley.

If it isnt either of those, then you might have a bad MFS witch is shot for multi function switch and it is the lever that controlls your lights. Its expensive to replace though and is a hastle to remove from the steering coloum to test.

Get yourself a volts, oms tester and check the dimmer switch 1st.
if thats alright then test with the wire.
if thats alright then check the back lights behind your cluster for burtn out bulbs,
and if all that looks good your down to the fuses might just look good, and the MFS

hope that narrows it down for you

Good Luck!

I had intermittent instrument light problem that went dark for months, until today. :o) I read somewhere that it could be the dimmer switch and didn't think that was my problem as the dimmer worked (dimmed the radio and transmission indicator light) and playing with it never seemed to help with the problem. I did find it odd that dimmer was not completely linear, as it would get brighter up to a certain point and get slightly dimmer with the last little bit of travel.

Today, I took the instrument cluster apart to fix a broken clock, sticking gas & voltage gauges, and to explore the instrument light problem. I took apart the dimmer switch, and to my surprise (was expecting a simple POT), it was a very complicated PCB with some IC's, resistors, transistors, etc. I thought, "all this just to dim the light???" Anyway, I found the POT (potentiometer) and gave a few squirts of WD-40 and found it turning smoother. After putting it back together, the instrument light came back and the dimmer is now perfectly linear. Apparently, less than perfect POT causes some sort of funny logic through the network of IC's and transistors and can cause the instrument light to go on or off randomly at certain intervals.

Anyway, I'm so happy to have the light back along with a working clock and not having to punch the instrument cluster to see how much fuel I have. Not really a posting type, but wanted to help someone else out there with a similar problem with same cause.

1989 740 Turbo