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In 2008,My 98' Ford Windstar has a spongy brake. It is 3.8 engine with ABS. Replaced master cylinder to start with; new brake line, new brake pad,no oil leake, but air mixed oil in brake line after bleeding 3 times by the mechanic. went to a Ford dealership, using computer bled, no help. the third autoshop checked and bled again, no help.
early in year 2009, brake oil almost run out and filled up, then need no more brake oil after that. the rear drum squeeze sound when brakes.
the car is hard to stop esp. when the ABS and or the track green light is on. the rubber brake line extentionn looks fine.
one ford dealer scan ABS, nothing wrong. 3 mechanic shop checked the rear brake, nothing wrong. but, I will replace the rear brake anyway.
PS: nobody care about clearing the ABS light, I don't. as long as the car can brake safely. those light is for dealer and Ford office managers, not for us. one ford dealer scan ABS, nothing wrong. 3 mechanic shop checked the rear brake, nothing wrong. but, I will replace the rear brake anyway.
PS: nobody care about clearing the ABS light, I don't. as long as the car can brake safely. those light is for dealer and Ford office managers, not for us.
I finally dig out a rusted old ABS module from jank yard for $150. After instalation by a mechanic, my car got a brake and can stop!!!!!!!!!!
The back brake is not for brake stop, it is only designed for hand brake when need parking. this is the top dark secret of North American auto industries.
Guru, you even don't leaned that?
I finally dig out a rusted old ABS module from jank yard for $150. After instalation by a mechanic, my car got a brake and can stop!!!!!!!!!!
The back brake is not for brake stop, it is only designed for hand brake when need parking. this is the top dark secret of North American auto industries.
Guru, you even don't leaned that?
You can't post conmments that contain an email address.
I don't know who told you that the rear brakes don't do anything when you push on the pedal but they are wrong. The rear brakes do apply when you push the parking brake but they also apply when you push the regular brakes. Although the front brakes will do 80% of the braking and the rear will only do 20%. Also the rear brakes will apply first to keep you from having the van nose dive or pull when you hit the brakes.
I don't know who told you that the rear brakes don't do anything when you push on the pedal but they are wrong. The rear brakes do apply when you push the parking brake but they also apply when you push the regular brakes. Although the front brakes will do 80% of the braking and the rear will only do 20%. Also the rear brakes will apply first to keep you from having the van nose dive or pull when you hit the brakes.
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Needs to have code reset for abs by a obd2 code reader with abs or find a parts house or shop that will reset it. Brake light coming on did you bleed the master cylinder out by connecting rubber lines to ths plastic insert ******* then acuating the master cylinder til all air is pumped out of master cylinder if that was not done then you will need to bleed all brakes until air is out of system that should turn brake light off
you need a new master cyclinder..you needed to open the brake line before you forced the caliper back in ,,,otherwise you force the fliud the wrong way though the master cylinder and ruin the internals
Check your parking brake. if it goes down to the floor or does not hold, then your back brakes needs adjusted. bad master cylinders bleed off slowly to the floor while pushing on the brake pedal. If you need assistance on adjusting let me know.
Randy
BY TRUCK HAVING ABS BRAKE.YOU NEED A SCANNER TO BLEED BRAKES THE SCANNER HAS TO RESET OPERATION OF THE BRAKE HYDRALIC SYTEM BEFORE YOU CAN BLEED SYSTEM.
thats odd. Adding brake fluid shouldn't have kicked on the ABS light..
Low brake fluid would cause your RED parking brake light to come on not the orange ABS light (unless thats what you mean. if thats the case its normal for that light to come on with low fluid. in this case check the brake lines starting to the master cylinder and the components at the wheels to make sure there is no leaks if you go HERE complained about your situation and also noticed a leak on the bottom of the master cylinder (hazardous in more than 1 way) )
not sure of the component locations under the hood of the windstar but check to see if you were bumping wires on the ABS control module when you were putting brake fluid in. may be a loose connection that jiggles loose when you drive.
otherwise it might need a new ABS control module or maybe moisture in one of the components.
Does sound like you need a new master cylinder. On a 2000 you wont need to back bleed. You will just need to follow the instruction and bleed the master and all four points. you will probably need to bleed the ABS block and proportioning valve but only if they have bleeders on them.
No need to run the engine. Start the bleed procedure from the caliper farthest from the master cylinder, and work toward it. This means bleed the passenger rear first, then the driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front. Don't stop bleeding any caliper until you get three or so consecutive streams of air-free fluid through the bleeder. Monitor the level of fluid in the cylinder, and be sure the cap is on while bleeding - only open it to add additional fluid as needed.
one ford dealer scan ABS, nothing wrong.
3 mechanic shop checked the rear brake, nothing wrong.
but, I will replace the rear brake anyway.
PS: nobody care about clearing the ABS light, I don't. as long as
the car can brake safely.
those light is for dealer and Ford office managers, not for us.
I finally dig out a rusted old ABS module from jank yard for $150. After instalation by a mechanic, my car got a brake and can stop!!!!!!!!!!
The back brake is not for brake stop, it is only designed for hand brake when need parking. this is the top dark secret of North American auto industries.
Guru, you even don't leaned that?
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