Van stalls intantly- misses bad if I give it gas.. Changed intake gaskets, both o2 sensers, cleaned MAF senser,and changed fuel filter.. Codes read bank 1&2 lean.. Only thing I can think of next is fuel injectors.. Any suggestions?

Codes indicate; Both sides of the Engine are running lean. Your fuel pressure reading indicates; Fuel pressure is way too low should be about 48 pounds Min to Run correctly!

Check voltages for 13.8-14.5 Volts at the battery while running and about 12 volts+ at the Fuel Pump Fuse, Check for fuel line leaks starting from fuel tank (Most likely won't find any), Next should Replace the fuel filter in this case regardless of what you find (Check for leaks before and after replacement), Next Replace the fuel regulator (Check for Fuel and Vacuum leaks) and finally Replace fuel pump.

However, other opinion are as follows;
What causes the P2197 code? O2 sensors create a rapidly oscillating voltage signal based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust stream. The voltage signal ranges from 0.1 volts to 0.9 volts. This oscillating voltage takes place in a matter of milliseconds and should never maintain a constant voltage. This code states that the voltage is not oscillating and is being held high indicating a lean condition in bank 2.

P2195
Possible causes Faulty Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 harness is open or shorted Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 circuit poor electrical connection Inappropriate fuel pressure Faulty fuel injectors Intake air leaks may be faulty Vacuums leaks

Read more: https://www.autocodes.com/p2195_ford.html

It'll work ...Enjoy!

have you check converter clug and o2 sensor
vacuum leak check leak with w40 or else
rotor,cap.quality of fuel
hope it helps

items to check, MAP senser, air intake senser ,O2 sense, feul mixture senser. look at disributor cap if button is not striking full pin timing is off. hormonic balancer has a rubber seal in it, and it can spin where it looks like timing is good but not. clugged exhuast good luck

you need to change the o2 sensor

P0171 - Fuel system lean bank 1
P0172- Fuel System lean bank 2

First steps- search for a vacuum leak and verify proper fuel pressure.

need to have a fuel pressure test also make sure egr is not open at idle car wont run with egr open at idle

I am tired of people getting the run around on these engines, and the "Like." This post will be repeatedly posted threw out the world wide web until It ranks number 1 in the google search list when a user googles 4.3 dies, or rough idles etc... For me, "There is absolutely No information on this when the problem occurred for me!." For example, We would not search for "the year the valve covers changed on vortecs" when we keep getting thin ones from a vortec thrown at use. As the Idiots "Humans" we are we would simply search for , "Flat valve cover gasket." In return we would get nowhere.

After we learn the problem, "After" we can then properly search google for the solution. For example the proper term would be, "What year did the vortec valve covers change in?" Walaa. Before hand we was googling for "Flat vortec gaskets."

My point, "You can not google for a solution if you have not already solved the problem."

CHEVY DIES at stop sighns, red lights,Redlights etc. If you are here reading this, Then it is because you have wound up here due to your engine stalling or not starting properly. You googled for a solution and here are some answeres. "Answeres I didn't have" when I had the problem.

These are keywords used to get you here when you googled your problem, Please Excuse them.

Chevy 4.3 vortec Die Died Stop Flud smoke Blue Black White Spark Missfire Code Error 15 43 45 14 OBD Lop Lope Loping Lopeing Surge Surging Surgeing Knock sensor senser light engine problems fault starting heat heating crank crunk run running viberation viberate stall hesitates hesitate fuel filter pump line vacuum vacume oil astro s10 sonoma chevy plug sparkplug distributor rotor button pop cold hot water intake carb EGR valve idle idler cam sputters misses leak hose. when sometimes
will not start
does not start
cant start can't start can not start will not start wont start want start problems starting idle problems.



Some 4.3's have 2 Coolent temperature sensors, Some only have 1. On the engines that contain 2 sensers, One is a Temperature Senser and the other a Temperature Switch.

The Temperature switch Is an open circuit, It closes at a high degree.

The Temperature Senser, It can Advance Timing, De-advance timing, Control your Fuel to Air ratio and much more. 9 Times out of ten if your truck is stalling, its the temperature senser.

Which one is the Senser, which is the Switch? The temperature Switch, Which is the minor of the 2, It has one "Vertical Pin in the center of Plug Housing." It is used only for Plug guidence. The smaller *** close to the center *** is the connector ***. It is where the 1 wire makes contact.

The Temperature Senser, Rather than switch has 2 side by side Vertical Parallel Male Titts. It also has 2 wires.

Some engines Do not have a Temperature Switch, The switch on these are built into a temperature senser, and a switch is not needed.


These are the "Symptoms" of a faulty temperature Senser.
Surging
Loping
Sudden shut offs at stops
Transmissing jerking, Leight or violent.
Missing
Missfiring, Since the senser Does control Timing!
Fluiding, Wrong Fuel to air Ratio, The senser controls that to.

Rings for your Vortec. If you can't find the rings you're lookinf for, Chances are " PERFECT CIRCLE " is the only Brand ring you will be able to find without paying the dealer price. Which Perfect circuit runs around 60 to 70 bucks for the hard to find rings that you thought was impossible to find.

(PVC valve can cause Smoking." And rough idle as well. But loping is mostly due to temp senser.


Vortecs have very few sensors. If any of them go out the BRAIN is "PROGRAMED" to cause a ton of trouble. They are Designed to cause you to spend your money.

Temp Senser, Code 15, Not all BAD temp sensers Shoot a code, Sometimes these Bad sensers Do go under the radar and the error anylizing doesn't work, and give code.

You can not test a Temp senser with an ohm meter, Because at different temps you get a different reading. If you suspect this type of problem make the senser number 1 on your list to replace.

The part is 12 bucks at autozone. $12.00 and you should not pay no more than 35 dollars to have it put on are you are getting ripped off very very very badly, Since that is "More than what its worth" to have it installed.

The vortecs with No temp Switch will have the senser located in the driver or passenger Head. Engines with switch sensers will have the switch on the head, and the senser by the Thermostat duck goose neck, so a hose may have to be removed along with a throttle cable and top breather.

78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21
19 19 49

vin
ECU
30 Block
code

Spider leaks due to lines or regulator, where regulator is not part of the spider and can be removed, regulator can be purches on the internet threw search engines for 50 bucks. Right clean intake equals bad regulator left equals bad supplie lines.

Supplie lines and clamps can be purchease under 3 dollars, hoses made for gasoline. Ports leak into cylinders.

Some engines have abnormal cylinder locations such as 135 or 153 and 642 or 246. Accorrding to the book of the cylinder locations mines are different. This is abnormal but those engines are out there.

If you're having problems with firing, Cross 2 and 6, then 3 and 5. Doing this will reveal the right locations over time. This can leave you scratchign your head when all you're finding is 1 diagram thats not for your engine.

"The Poppet Valves DO NOT leak inside the intake." What Idiot ever started that. They leak inside the HEADS. The Regulator and Supplie lines leak inside the intake. Rarely do you need a entire "Spider."

Caution, Spider lines are Fragile and will break like glass. Do not bend them any.

How to install Supplie line hoses to the spider. Insert the washers First, Then insert the feed lines. DO NOT insert the supplie lines if they contain a washer already on them, They will not fit. You must first Push the washers Inside the spider, Then the feed lines will go into the spider, and as this happens the washers will slide up onto the lines, This is how it is done. User a lube, Gas or PB blaster Oil or whatever.


IF you run into the store, come back out and your engine fails to start, It's probably your Senser if you can't keep it running. If you manage but it stinks, its probably your spiter. You can also Hear gas leaks inside intake. Cap can be removed to see inside intake, Intake shouldn't be too clean which would indicate gas cleaning.

early production 202 chasis cars had an updated overvoltage protection relay modification. I beleive it was to remidy a no start condition. From my experience there was a problem with the o2 senser heater circiut that would cause intermittent stalling when cold. There should be codes stored in the engine diagnostic modul even if hfm has not reconized a problem. i would have the scanned for codes. If none present I would purge the intake manifold(clean with special cleaner inducted into manifold via vac, port to remove all the carbon buld up and have the maf senser electrical porion cleaned. It would be a good idea to replace the front o2s with the mileage you have on vehicle.The heater grid is also located internally in the o2 senser. Hopefully you maintain your vehicle and have changed the sparkplugs and fuel filter according to service specs. Good luck

you may have a intake gasket leak

The fual pump is bad, you need to change it.