1997 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup Logo
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. Replacing rear pad's,& Bleeding Breaks

1999 Chevy S10 Blazer 4x4. I replaced rear brake pads and bled brakes, but now I have almost NO pedal. Is there a special way you have to bleed these Blazers???

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  • Posted on Mar 11, 2009
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Have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.

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  • Posted on Nov 25, 2022
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It's your anti lock brake actuater it will not bleed if brake lines drained you will have to fund someone with a scanner that is capable of cycling anti lock brake actuator or dealership before I purchased my scanner I would bleed my front wheels good then drive the vehicle in gravel or dirt and apply braking till front wheels lock up you will hear your pump begin working now bleed back wheels take clear hose and stick it onto the bleeder nipple with other end of hose in a bottle of brake fluid with the line staying submerged in brake fluid you can then bleed the brakes alone and without introducing any more air into the system hope this helps someone goodluck

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Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
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bleed the brake again. if the pedal goes to the floor with little resistance, then the master cylinder is your problem.
the shim is to depress the noise when you applied the brake. you can skip that, if the brake works without it.
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I replaced the rotors and pads on my right hand drive Blazer and had the same problem ,dont worry in a couple of days normal running the pressure goes away and you dont get the heat problem.
Its just the new pads bedding in.

J.C.
U.K.
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