- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Think about how the vehicle is acting. Starts fine when cold, hard to start when warm. In these computer operated systems, the computer runs everything. Starts fine when cold: the computer has the engine in cold start mode putting more fuel in till it warms up. Temperature sending unit in the manifold sends a message to the computer telling it to stop the cold start mode and it stops dumping excess fuel into the cylinders and it runs fine. IF, mind you, IF the temperature sending unit is faulty, it's not telling the computer to stop the cold start mode and is flooding the engine with fuel cause it's sill in cold start mode. This is my take away on your situation and the temp sending unit is something to check to be sure it's functional. Check it out. I hope this WAS the answer to your problem my friend. It's typical. Luck to'ya Bro.
Its probably a problem with the water temperature sensor. Also do not rev a cold engine. The engine has a "cold start sequence" which is similar to a choke. When the engine gives a cold signal, the fuel mix is made richer and the timing is changed until the engine warms.
Let the engine warm at the preset factory settings. Sometimes the O2 sensors will cancel the cold start sequence before the water is warm. Racing the engine will warm the O2 sensors too quickly.
is it turning over. could be a faulty main fuse. problem is you cant see in the fuse to see if broken. when cold points contract making it start, when warm it expands and creates a void
You should have the fuel injectors and the especially the "cold start injector" checked for leaks. The cold start injector only operates during cold starts. If you don't notice the problem during warm starts, then the cold start injector is the place to start.
I have heard that Fords theory behind that is to supply maximum oil pressure to moving parts sooner. All the Ford products do this and the motors last well into the hundreds of thousand of miles. I wouldn't be to worried about it since there is no issue with it to my knowledge and there is no way to limit the cold start RPM's.
Cold start warm ups are a thing of the past. Better lubricants, engines, fuel injection and other computer controls have made start ups easier on the engine. 30 seconds is barely enough time to warm up anything and after a few seconds oil has already reached all of its intended lubricating points. That first few seconds is the hardest on the engine. Regardless of how any RPM's it is turning.
Ok, time for car school. The vehicle is operated by the computer, every electrical concept that is. When the engine is cold, it starts fine because the computer has placed it in "cold start mode", putting more fuel into the engine than normally would until Once the engine is warmed up, a temperature sending unit or temp sensor tells the computer to change to normal run mode. IF said temp sensor is faulty and is not telling the computer to make said change, it stays in cold start mode, still dumping excess fuel in the engine that is now not required, cause it's warmed up. Like keeping the choke closed on older vehicles. Now I think you can answer your own question, when this no start action is happening after warm up and it always starts fine when cold, what's the first thing you check ? Right, the unsuspected temp sensor. Change that and no more start problem. Have a wonderful day. Glad I could be of service.
May be the fuel pump, experienced similar problems in 1995 Intrepid. When the pump warmed up, it would start to loose pressure and car would sputter and die, but would start back up. If it started it would usually begin sputtering again and eventually die.
Kinda sounds like the ECM or "start mixture" control module is faulty or is getting a bad input from a sensor. For example, it man not be getting a proper temperature sense from the exhaust manifold or the intake manifold water temp sensor. So, every start seems like a cold start....
If your cold start is on a "cold" engine - fine. If your cold start is on a "warm" engine - problem. Mixture is too rich for a warm engine.
Again, could be sensor sending a bad temp signal... or the control module not responding to the signal.
A bit too complicated a problem to exactly troubleshoot via long distance... but you now have a starting point.... -Jim
check engine coolant temperature when it gets warmer, or at operating temperature, and verify that the temperature gauge is showing warmed up to operating temperature. If the coolant temperature sensor tells the computer the engine is cold it will over fuel and miss and the engine will die. When cooled down it will run fine until it warms up. Also could be coil if it starts missing after warmed up.
×