Question about 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

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92 dodge van rear ABS-brake and ABS lights on/can't reset?

I have replaced all brakes and brake lines.I have brake pressure but not a solid pedal.I assume there is a proper way to bleed this system ,but haven't found it yet! How do you reset the proportional valve and the ABS so the light on the dash is off! I have gravity bleed and assistant bleed, but still have a low brake.Rear brakes are adjusted firm, new roters,calipers.and brake pads on front. Master clyinder clean with new seals!

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  • Anonymous Apr 15, 2009

    i have a 2000 dode ram van with ncg ive changed the front pads calipers and gravedy bleed the brakes but still have no brakes the abs light stays on 

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Its probably how your bleeding your brakes, but first make sure the bleeding nipples are facing upward. You should bleed diagonaly, front pass wheel then rear driver wheel. Then front driver wheel and rear pass wheel. The abs light has its own computer your have to get it scanned to clear the codes and turn off the light

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • Anonymous Mar 18, 2009

    Bleed the brakes diagonaly front pass to rear drive the front drive to rear pass. Also just double check that the bleed nipples are facing upward. The ABS has its own computer you need to get it scanned to clear any codes and have the light turned off.

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Had both front wheel calipers off and did linings. Now I have no brake pedal to speak of. Tried bleeding old fashioned two man way and did not work. Car is a 1998 buick regal LS


Do you have an electronic brake pressure pump for brake assist that you may want to make sure works properly. When turning ignition on, you should hear the motor run, also when you press the brake pedal.

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How do I bleed the brakes after replacing a brake line?


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Abs brake system


Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem

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Brake pedal soft


You still have air in the brake system and this becomes evident when the operation of the booster allows the pedal to do down as it is compressing the air in the lines more efficiently than what you can do with your foot. Try starting the bleeding procedure but undoing the lines at the master cylinder and priming the unit first to get the air out of both sides of the unit. Tighten the lines and with the help of a assistant start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. Booster failure will result in no assistance or engine stopping from a massive vacuum leak when the valves are opened. The abs is just a motor driven pump that supplies pressure to the brake system when the wheel sensors come into operation otherwise the brake pedal pressure is operating through the ABS unit to the brakes. (An ABS is only there to keep the brake pressure constant as the sensor opens and closes a valve to stop the wheel skidding . If it is not working then pressure from the pedal may bleed back leaving you with no brakes.)

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Proper way to bleed brake lines and system


First check your level in the brake fluid reservoir. If full, then you will need to pull off one tire at a time to bleed the brakes. There will be a bleeder valve on each caliper. Open the valve and pump the brakes until hard and hold, to get air out of the system. Then close the valve. I usually use a clear tube attached to the valve so that I can make sure I got all the air out of the line. Once air is gone, do the other side. Make sure to keep brake fluid full in reservoir to prevent air from reentering the brake lines.

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How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

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    1 Answer

    Still cant get a brake pedal.. been bleeding the lines but not getting much out of them. replaced master cylinder, still no pedal. has all new lines also


    you may have to run the motor as you bleed the brakes so the abs hydraulic unit can purge any air that might be caught within the unit itself.did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it on the car.this can save time and reduce the possible chance of air entering the system.make sure you don`t allow the master cylinder to run low on brake fluid.i also assume that you are bleeding the brakes properly.Left front brake works with Right rear brake and Right front brake works with Left rear brake.this is how the brakes should be bleed.

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    Looking for a replacement part for My 1999 Ford F150 XL 4.6 L... With no luck. (I had a faulty front brake line - now after replacing it ..it will not bleed air or fluid) Disconnected the line from the...


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    Nissan 1400 champ front brakes binding, brake paddle stays high.


    This indicates that you have air in the brake system or something isn't mounted properly. You'll need to inspect to see if there is anything not properly mounted, I'll deal with the brake bleeding:

    You will need to bleed the brakes from the right rear first, then the left rear, right front, then left front brake, all without letting the brake Master Cylinder resivoir from getting low while doing the bleeding.

    You may even want to start with the master cylinder to make sure it's bled properly by loosening the lines there first, bleeding them & then continuing to the system. Use the guide below for best results.

    Bleeding brakes properly:
    1. 2 people are required to do this properly, forget one man bleeders, they do work, but don't talk back or identify problems as they can't see what's happening. As a safety feature it's good to have another person nearby when someone is getting underneath a vehicle. Even my wife has had to do the pedal pushing in my household when I didn't have an assistant and needed to bleed either a brake system, or a clutch system.

    2. Never let the fluid go beneath half way down when bleeding the brakes.

    3. When adding fluid to the master cylinder, use a funnel to allow the fluid to run down the side into the cylinder, or use a syringe to prevent air from entering the fluid as you pour it.

    4. Always pump the brakes slowly, release them slowly. Fast pedal action causes the fluid to rise into the air, allowing air to enter the system.

    5. Pressurize the system by pumping repeatedly until the pedal is as firm as it will get, continue to hold that pedal down until the person bleeding the brakes, has released the air by loosening the bleeder valve, then make sure the line is tightened BEFORE releasing the brake pedal slowly. Pump the pedal again to build pressure, & bleed the brake again the same way until air stops coming out & only good fluid is seen. Proceed to the next farthest line.

    If done this way, the brakes will be properly bled and if there are no leaks, the system should work properly. If you identify a leak, repair and start over.

    good luck

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    2 Answers

    Brake pedal still goes to floor 2000 GMC Jimmy


    It's very possible to be the master cylinder, the o-rings on the piston could be worn, letting the fluid seep back through instead of getting full pressure through the lines. Could also be the brake booster.
    Try changing the master cylinder first, which is cheaper and easier, and see if there is a difference, you'll need to bleed the brakes again.
    To check the booster,
    With the engine off, pump the brakes until the pedal is hard, then hold pressure on the brake pedal and listen for air escaping, or the pedal goes slowly to the floor, Do that after the master cylinder has been changed, at least that will be eliminated.

    Sep 15, 2009 | 2000 GMC Jimmy

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