Maxda tourque wernch settings

According to PTCruiser Links.com: " I have a Hayne's Manual that's for 2001 through 2003. It says to tighten all the valeve cover bolts to 40 inch pounds, initially. Then--when all are at that setting, tighten all of them to 80 inch pounds. Then when all are that tight, do the final tightening to 105 inch pounds. Sounds like a weird way to do it, but I bet it won't leak if you follow these directions ....

Before doing this, apply a "light" coating of RTV sealant onto the corners of number 1 and number 6 camshaft bearing caps (I guess some oil will leak if this isn't done). In other words, the back corners as you're facing the engine from the front of the car.

Tightening sequence: Do all the middle ones first, starting with the bolt in the middle of the valve cover, then the one just above it, then the one just below it. Then do the same sequence for the left three bolts. Then do the same sequence for the right three bolts.

Then get a Hayne's manual, because it may not be perfect, but it shows a lot of torque settings and other stuff you will need in the future.

I don't wrench all that often anymore, so I use a torque wrench. My bad!

Tim "

It could be a servo malfunction or perhaps a sensor controlling the servo that engages the next clutch for the second gear. But for something like this to fail it has to be really a rare case, as auto transmissions are mean to take all the brunt of engine and drive-train workload and for a transmission to fail is also a rare case. Auto transmission run by a torque converter and gears are overall lubricated by the automatic transmission fluid. For a transmission to fail, it is either neglected or trashed, e.g. never had a service, never had a fluid change, in other words - checked the fluid level. And then there is the trashing, e.g. trashed without service, low in fluid and hard manual change (revving the engine and then slam it into 'Drive' to do wheelies). The first thing you need to do it check the fluid level, what colour is it, dark wine colour is very old (and dirty), if it is light colour fluid (like the same colour as the new fluid in a container), then the fluid is okay, we move to the next step. Many transmissions have filters inside the housing and these trap small particles of clutch and metal fragments. If you're a mechanic you can start here. if you're not, don't bother, as transmission work is not for you. Let's assume you know enough about mechanical work and have a set of sockets, a wrench and a torque wrench (a specialized tool to tighten bolts and nuts to the correct tension). So, work to transmissions are to be done when cold, that is when the car hasn't been running on the road, so the fluid is not hot. Jack the car, place supporting stands or drive it on portable ramps. Some transmissions have a draining plug. If so, drain the fluid in a white 6 litre container (white so that you can see the colour of the fluid and whether there are fragments of clutch material at the bottom of the container, later. Do not do anything else unless you can see these symptoms: fluid has burned smell, fluid has a dark wine colour, and when feeling the fluid between the fingers it feels sticky rather than smooth. Now, use another white container and pour the fluid into it, noting the colour of the fluid leaving the first container. If it is still darker and you can hardly see the lip of the first container through the fluid being poured into the second container then that fluid had never been changed or it is a result of being fouled by hard flooring and changing gears while the engine is at high revs. Either way this is the result of the burned smell. If you noticed any of these, it's time to remove the transmission pan,
Remove all bolts, then carefully remove the pan flat to avoid spilling the remnant fluid on you and also to avoid disturbing the sediments at the bottom of the pan. Once removed, pour whatever fluid is left in the pan in a clean white container and inspect the pan for sediments, broken clutch material and small metallic grains or fragments and the smell. This will indicate that the transmission will have to have a major overhaul but it's not necessary because this also indicates that to neglect a transmission would mean to destroy it and eventually it will be destroyed by the way you drive. What you need to do now is to see if there are any signs of a filter attached under the transmission. remove it and clean with mineral turps, solvent or kerosene. Allow to drain and when dry dip it into a transmission fluid before replacing it back on the transmission. Add a new pan (aka sump) gasket and replace the bolts, tighten by hand, then using a suitable socket and a hand wrench tighten them just so they seat *******, then use the torque wrench, set it to 20 ft lb and start tightening each bolt in a criss-cross fashion - one bolt here then the other bolt across the pan, then go back to the second bolt where you tightened the first and tighten that one, then go back to the second bolt and tighten the one next to the second bolt and so on, eventually reaching the fist bolt. Be sure you have a lot of concentration of which bolt you have to tighten next and always remember to re-set the pin on the torque wrench to make it click when the set tension has reached. Over tightening the pan or sump will damage it. So, stay focused on the tightening sequence. if unsure and you might lose track, then number them with a texta or chalk. Then set the torque wrench to (I think 30 ft lb) and tighten each bolt, starting from the first bolt and repeat the same sequence until all the bolts are tightened. Note that I am only guessing the torque of 30 ft lb for the type of bolts I think your transmission have, but the bolts could be bigger or smaller, so, to be sure, you should refer this subject to a mechanic, or search online for bolt tightening charts. Refill the transmission then run the engine and check the fluid level. Top it up to the required level if necessary. Then do several slow forward - reverse changes to allow the fluid to disperse into critical components, valves, servos, etc., then again check the fluid level and road test the car. Hopefully it should change gears. if not, then it may be too late to save your day and a major overhaul is necessary. If not, a change-over transmission would be cheaper. See how you will do with these home repairs first. Also, ask about what criss-crossing bolt tightening sequence means before you engage in repairs. Cheers.
Photo is a standard torque wrench for most mechanical work.

Cylinder head Renew bolts: Yes Tighten: 25 Nm Tighten: 90° Tighten: 90° Tighten: 90° Other engine tightening torques Main bearings Renew bolts/nuts: Yes Main bearings Stage 1: 50 Nm Main bearings Stage 2: 45°-60° Big end bearings Renew bolts/nuts: Yes Big end bearings Stage 1: 35 Nm Big end bearings Stage 2: 45°-60° Oil pump to cylinder block : 6 Nm Sump bolts : 15 Nm Sump drain bolt : 55 Nm Flywheel/driveplate :

• Use new bolts and tighten as follows:
  • 1,4/1,6 = 35 Nm + 30° + 15°
  • 1,8/2,0 = 65 Nm + 30° + 15°
• "Pot"-type flywheel = 65 Nm + 30° + 15°
• Tighten drive plate to 60 Nm.

Clutch pressure plate : 15 Nm Crankshaft pulley/damper centre bolt : Use new bolts. Tighten centre bolt to 130 Nm + 40°-50°
Camshaft sprocket/gear : 45 Nm Camshaft/rocker cover : 8 Nm Inlet manifold to cylinder head : 22 Nm Exhaust manifold to cylinder head : 22 Nm Spark plugs : 25 Nm Lambda sensor (Oxygen) : 30 Nm Chassis tightening torques Front hub :

• Tighten nut in three stages:
  1. 130 Nm
  2. Slacken off
  3. 20 Nm + 80°-90°.

Steering track rod end : New nuts 60 Nm Brake disc to hub Front: 4 Nm Brake caliper to carrier Front: 30 Nm Brake caliper/carrier to hub Front: 95 Nm Brake caliper/carrier to hub Rear: 80 Nm New bolts ABS sensor Front: 8 Nm ABS sensor Rear: 15 Nm Road wheels : 110 Nm
There you go pretty much covers everything hope that helps

First what make what model? And is (dampner) face foward or pass side fender well acess trouble is removeing main or center crank bolt loosened 4 or 5 outer bolts internal pulley puller on ballancer or three finger gear puller or center bolt push rod
install 4 or five bolts loose but middle of bolts do not tighten. Install center bolt tourque till tight. Tighten down 4 or 5 bolts
spin motor to verify ballecer is true without fuel. Diconnect fuel pump relay as so it wont start spin again verify true tourqu to 90 120 ftlbs

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_c7b5aba9012a13b2

to remove head gasket first take off the valve cover and locate head bolts .make sure one is not broken . then remove timming belt cover and set engine to top dead center by the mark on the crank pulleyengine drive belt will also need to be removed.loosen timming belt tension ,mark belt osision and slide belt from camshaft gear .sometimes its easier to remove the gear.disconect fuel lines ,exuat pipe from manifold ,and sensor wires ,sparkplug wires and any other vacum lines wires ,ect ....that are conected the the cylinder head. before removel disconnect battery and drain cooling system. remove the head bolts ,inside and work to the outside in a circle.may need to pry head from the engine block careful .reinspect to make sure all hoses and wire ,lines are not still attached..always seems to be one thing that will still be attached..after head is removed ,you should be able to see where the gasket is damaged. clean all mating surfaces off engine block and head toinspect for cracks and damage.make it extra clean....razor blade scraper, sand paper ,brakecleaner and lots of shop towels. that is the most important to have clean surface ...install new gasket and reinstall head bolts to the proper tourque specs. parts guy can tell you if you dont know. when the head bolts are tight, this is a good time to drain oil and filter and after repair is finished install new 50/50 coolant. good luck with your repair

This should give you a clue as to how to replace the timing belt on the camshaft pulleys. Camshaft and Valve Lifters REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1.6L Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Timing belt
   • Crankcase ventilation tube from the valve cover
   • Spark plug cover bolts and the cover
   • Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector
   • Spark plug wires from the plugs
   • Valve cover nuts, washers, cover and gasket
   NOTE: Be very careful not to nick or scratch the camshafts.
   
4. Hold the flats of the intake camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and remove the camshaft gear bolt. Remove the gear.
5. Hold the flats of the exhaust camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and remove the camshaft gear bolt. Remove the gear.
6. Mark the camshaft cap locations so that they may be returned to their original positions.
7. Remove the camshaft cap bolts in the sequence illustrated.
8. Remove the caps and the camshafts. Fig. 1: Loosen the camshaft cap bolts in this sequence using several passes - 1.6L engine
   To install:
   
9. Lubricate the camshafts and caps with engine oil.
10. Install the caps and the camshafts in their original positions.
11. Tighten the camshaft cap bolts in the sequence illustrated to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm). Fig. 2: Tighten the camshaft cap bolts in the sequence illustrated using several passes - 1.6L engine
    
    
12. Measure the camshaft endplay on both camshafts. The endplay should be 0.003-0.009 in. (0.10-0.25mm).
13. Install the intake camshaft gear. Hold the flats of the intake camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 49 ft. lbs. (67 Nm).
14. Install the exhaust camshaft gear. Hold the flats of the exhaust camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 49 ft. lbs. (67 Nm).
15. Apply a small amount of gasket sealer to the corners of the front camshaft caps and to the top of the rear valve cover-to-cylinder head seal.
16. Install or connect the following:
    • Valve cover, washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • Spark plug wires to the plugs
    • Spark plug cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • CMP sensor connector
    • Crankcase ventilation tube to the valve cover
    • Timing belt

2.0L and 2.2L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   • Negative battery cable
   • Timing belt
   • Crankcase ventilation tube from the valve cover
   • Spark plug cover bolts and the cover
   • Spark plug wires from the plugs
   • Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor connector
   • Valve cover nuts, washers, cover and gasket
   NOTE: Be very careful not to nick or scratch the camshafts.
   
4. Hold the flats of the intake camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and remove the camshaft gear bolt. Remove the gear.
5. Hold the flats of the exhaust camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and remove the camshaft gear bolt. Remove the gear.
6. Mark the camshaft cap locations so that they may be returned to their original positions.
7. Remove the camshaft cap bolts in several passes of one half turn each in the sequence illustrated.
8. Remove the seal ring from the camshafts. NOTE: Make sure the camshafts detaches evenly from the bearing seats in the front guide bearing.
   
9. Remove the caps and the camshafts. Fig. 3: Remove the camshaft cap bolts in several passes of one half turn each in the sequence illustrated - 2.0L and 2.2L engines
   To install:
   
10. Lubricate the camshafts and caps with engine oil.
11. Install the caps and the camshafts in their original positions.
12. Tighten the camshaft cap bolts in the sequence illustrated to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm). Fig. 4: Tighten the camshaft cap bolts in the sequence illustrated using several passes - 2.0L and 2.2L engines
    
    
13. Measure the camshaft endplay on both camshafts. The endplay should be 0.0015-0.0056 in. (0.040-0.144mm).
14. Install the intake camshaft gear. Hold the flats of the intake camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), retighten the bolt an additional 60 degree turn and finally an additional 15 degree turn.
15. Install the exhaust camshaft gear. Hold the flats of the exhaust camshaft in position using an open ended wrench and tighten the camshaft gear bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm), retighten the bolt an additional 60 degree turn and finally an additional 15 degree turn.
16. Install or connect the following:
    • Valve cover, washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts to 71 inch lbs. (8 Nm).
    • CMP sensor connector
    • Spark plug wires to the plugs
    • Spark plug cover and bolts. Tighten the bolts to 27 inch lbs. (3 Nm).
    • Crankcase ventilation tube to the valve cover
    • Timing belt
    • Negative battery cable

Hi,

Just to add to previous solution...

Assuming your head is straight & without defects, ensure you follow the correct tightening sequence diagram (see numbers) below:


Front of engine

i e
n 10 8 x
t h
a 4 6 a
k u
e 2 1 s
t
5 3
s s
i 7 9 i
d d
e e


1) Apply a small amount of engine oil to the thread section of the bolt and install so the chamfer of the washer faces upward.

2) In the proper tightening sequence (as shown above), torque bolts initially to 22 ft.lbs. (30Nm)

3) In the proper tightening sequence, now torque bolts to 45 ft.lbs. (61Nm)

4) In the proper tightening sequence, finally torque bolts to 68 ft.lbs. (92Nm)


Now you can Install the Camshaft sprocket and tighten it to 65 ft.lbs. (90Nm), while holding sprocket in place using the correct wrench.

Confirm proper timing mark alignment.

Cheers,

I Have Pictures But they must be Emailed as JPEG file
FixYa Does not have Un-Encription software so that I can Send Pics through FixYa.com . I can be reached @ aol.com with this screename. Be More than glad to send them to send em


SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED (or equivalent)

• J-33039-A, Cam drive belt tension adjustment wrench.

NOTE: O.E. manuals do NOT provide images of the timing marks, however, the alignment marks are located on the camshaft and crankshaft gears and the rear timing belt cover.

REMOVE OR DISCONNECT

1. Battery ground cable, then partially drain cooling system.
2. Coolant recovery reservoir.
3. Serpentine, A/C and/or P/S drive belts(if equipped).
4. Evaporative emission pipe assembly.
5. Crankshaft pulley.
6. Timing belt cover attaching bolts and the cover.
7. Align marks on timing gears with the marks on the rear timing cover.
8. Loosen water pump bolts, then using J-33039-A on the water pump eccentric, release the belt tension.
9. Timing belt.

INSTALL OR CONNECT

1. Turn crankshaft and camshaft gears clockwise to align timing marks on timing belt rear cover.
2. Timing belt, making sure that the portion between the crankshaft and camshaft gears is in tension.
3. Using J-33039-A rotate water pump eccentric clockwise until tensioner contacts high torque stop, then tighten water pump bolts slightly.
4. Rotate the engine by the crankshaft gear bolt 720°clockwise to seat timing belt on sprockets.
5. With engine at room temperature, rotate water pump eccentric with J-33039-A counterclockwise until hole in tensioner arm is inline with hole in base.
6. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft lbs) and ensure tensioner holes remain aligned.
7. Timing belt cover and tighten bolts and nuts to 9 Nm (80 in lbs) .
8. Crankshaft pulley, apply Loctite(R) 242 to bolt threads and tighten to 21 Nm (15 ft lbs) .
9. Evaporative emission pipe assembly.
10. Serpentine, A/C and/or P/S drive belts (if equipped).
11. Coolant recovery reservoir and fill cooling system.
12. Battery ground cable.

10 foot/pounds. Hint from experience, change the gasket.