Rescently r&r upper plenum on 94 trooper 3.2, and now when back together, the motor seems to be more or less floodering, to best describe it, at about 30 or 40 & up, wasn't doing nothing on test run but next day started acting like trans. is slipping or maybe fuel pump, or intake leake somewhere, have went over my work several times , nothing found, is it common that i might of pinched a wire under the intake , or does it sound like a ignition problem? ran good before all this just put new time belt on myself
My problem was solved when I repaired my 4 wd activation dash switch. The switch was contacting on 2WD & 4HI at the same time. The front differential activation is vacuum activated possibly creating a tug of war that didn't actually engage it but drained off vacuum from the engine? A theory at best but stumbbled across it because I knew the switch wasn't working properly I repaired it and low and behold rough idle disappeared and all is good for 3 weeks running.
Rule 1 ....WD40 is non-flammable. It used to be an effective starter spray for diesels. Unfortunately it now contains a fire retardant to prevent accidents....so the rev you were looking for wont arrive.
It does work well with easy-start/ether though.
I suspect you found a vacuum leak and sucked WD40 into the intake....If u think u did you'll need to clean your plugs.
A strobe lamp to check the spark would be a good idea. Also if a lil squirt (VERY LITTLE) of easy start doesnt produce at least a backfire, your spark is out.
Can you hear a click during that 2 secounds? Thats the relay shutting off the pump just what its suppost to do. The pump does not run contenuosly, if it did it would burn up, thats what the relay is for, it kicks on and off to maintain the correct pressure to engine as needed. It will not turn back on until it resets itself because engine was not running, thats the way there designed.
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I found a forum post on Jeep Enthusiast Forums that provides the tightening sequence for the 3.8L upper intake plenum of a 2007 Chrysler TWC. Here are the steps:
Remove covering on lower intake manifold and clean surfaces.
Inspect manifold gasket condition. Gaskets can be re-used, if not damaged. Position new gasket in seal channel and press lightly in-place. Repeat procedure for each gasket position.
Position upper manifold on lower manifold.
Apply Mopar® Lock & Seal Adhesive (Medium Strength Threadlocker) to each upper intake manifold bolt.
Install and tighten bolts to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.) using torque sequence.
Here is the torque sequence for the 3.8L upper intake plenum:
6 2 4
5 1 3
Please note that this information is provided as-is and I recommend consulting a professional mechanic for any further assistance.
Well basically, you remove the intake plenum and replace the gasket and reinstall the plenum. Here are the steps:
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the remote jumper terminal located at the right strut tower. 2. Remove the air inlet resonator and tube. 3. Remove the throttle actuator cables from the throttle arm and bracket. 4. Disconnect Secondary Runner Valve (SRV), Manifold Tuning Valve (MTV), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connectors. 5. Remove the electrical connector and the Intake Air Temperature/Manifold Absolute Pressure (TMAP) sensor. 6. Disconnect vacuum hoses from the Secondary Runner Valve (SRV) reservoir, Speed Control reservoir, and PCV. 7. Remove right and left intake manifold supports. 8. Remove support brackets at the intake manifold front corners and MTV. 9. Loosen upper fastener attaching throttle body to support bracket. 10. Remove clips attaching EGR tubes to intake manifold. 11. Remove intake manifold bolts and manifold 12. Remove old gaskets, Clean gasket surfaces, and install new gaskets. 13. Reverse steps to reinstall manifold
Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off? For 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold... (see Figure 14) The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds.
The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.
CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved
before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the
fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
Remove the alternator.
Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.
Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components
Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Idle Air Control (IAC)
Fuel Injectors
Coolant temperature sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
Vacuum modulator
Fuel pressure regulator
PCV valve
Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
Remove the right side engine mount.
Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
Remove the thermostat housing.
Remove both rocker arm covers.
Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on
the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.
Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating
surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of
cylinder block
To install:
Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.
The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5
3
/4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long).
Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and
rocker arms.
Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten
to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant
12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of
bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115
inch lbs. (13 Nm).
Install the front rocker arm cover.
Install the thermostat housing.
Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
Loosely install the serpentine belt.
Connect the right side engine mount.
Remove the special engine support tool.
Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the MAP sensor.
Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
Install the alternator assembly.
Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
Install the serpentine belt.
Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
Install the brake vacuum pipe.
Fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.
a plenum is the top part of the intake manifold, modern fuel injected cars and trucks (gas engiones) have a upper and lower intake manifold, the upper section is called the plenum.
If the heads were appreciably milled to resurface them, you may have a poor fitting intake manifold (to the head ports). If so, the manifold will require similar milling to compensate for the heads--check with the shop that did the work. This used to be a problem in the '50's when trying to hop-up OHV V-8's. Any freeze plug would be in the block, not the heads.
This maybe due to an intake gasket leaking vacuum and causing a lean air-fuel mixture. Check for a vacuum leak where the lower intake plenum meets the cylinder heads. Separating the upper and lower intake manifold is not necessary. These gaskets are plastic and metal. The plastic gasket cracks causing a vacuum leak. This is an unmetered air leak and may cause fuel trim codes like PO171 and Po174 to set. There is an updated gaskets to repair the problem from Isuzu. These codes are for a lean fuel condition, not bad O2 sensors. Do you also have a rough idle?
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