My check engine light comes in sometimes and I have been by the advanced auto 2 times to get it read, both time I was told it was a low emission leak nothing serious , yet! the susuki dealership in my area went out of buisness so I cant take it there. any idea what it could be i first thought it was the gas cap but this is twice now , I am becoming concerned!!! thanks for anything

The check engine light n or reduced power light comes on when the on-board computer detects a fault in engine driveability or performance, transmission control system or transmission, or the emissions system, and a fault code is set and stored in the computer. Faults that can set the check engine light can range from a vaccuum leak, engine mis-fire, low engine compression, faulty sensor such as O2 sensor or other engine sensor, hydraulic pressure loss in transmission, transmission shift solenoid, open/short in wiring harness, emission evaporative system leak, or one of over a hundred different reasons. The only way to know what set a fault code and turned the check engine light on is to have a diagnostic scanner hooked up to the on-board computer and read it for stored diagnostic fault codes. Many auto parts stores will do this service for free- (like auto zone)check with you local parts stores. If none in your area do, then you will have to take it to a shop and pay to have the computer read for stored fault codes. Without knowing the fault codes numbers, it would be irresponsible to guess as to the cause as there are hundreds of possible causes.

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tune up time?, at least spsrk plugs, and filters.
misfire is just that. its misifiring and #1 top of list, 100 years is tuneup.

Was it the check engine light or the Low Coolant error message?

If the former, likely an emissions problem - coolant is unlikely to solve that.

Have the OBD codes read at an auto parts store, proceed accordingly.

The Low Coolant light sometimes takes some time to reset.

You did refill / recheck it with the engine COLD, didn't you?

Sometimes sensors report a reading in error due to a low Battery. Since your car is 6 years old, it may be on its first or second Battery and a weak Battery throws off some of the Codes. Have the Battery checked before blaming anything else.

A dirty sensor can also change the readings. There are some additives which can clean the Emissions system without removing any parts. Bad gas can also affect the ratios of burnt gasoline residues.

Certainly a bad catalytic can cause your readings. Catalytic converters can fail due to rich fuel mixes and burning contaminated fuel or leaded gas. But they MAY clear themselves if they can burn off the junk that is affecting them.

So get the Battery checked, use an additive, and allow a few hours of driving time to clear the debris. Have the computer cleared for Free at Autozone, Advance, or Oreilys.

check engine light illuminates due to a multiple array of problems- such as emissions, temperature, fuel...etc. when the light comes on it means the computer sees a problem and puts out a code that needs to be read by a code reader. usually at a dealer/auto shop.

What you need to do is check all the vacuum lines. Listen fro a hissing noise. it is leaking some where. Any time there is a MAF, and both 02 sensors pop a code, this is the first thing to check. And fords seem to leak the most.

Now's a good time to have the engine's codes to be read by an OBD-II Scanner. You can buy your own scanner for under $100 from Walmart or Sears that will tell you in English what system is failing on your vehicle.

Or, you could have Autozone or Advance Auto Parts scan it for free to determine which codes exist, and sometimes their meaning.

It could be as simple as a tune up or as complicated as the hundreds if not thousands of codes that exist on engines these days.

Good luck on scanning your computer.

SOUND LIKE FAULTY ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR 2 CIRCUIT HIGH.

Lots of carbon in the cylinders,EGR valve not working,a dirty or leaking fuel injector,to far advanced timing.

Run 2 cans of fuel injector in 1/2 tank of gas and run it as low as you can before refueling.

I would set the timing back 5 degrees and test again,put it into service mode (check engine light on) if you have to to get timing back to cool combustion for the test.

This should lower the no% and the co% may just pass too.

Do not use premium fuel ( which is just slower burning fuel) when doing etests,or for normal driving if your engine does not require it,
It will cause carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and it will almost always give higher readings when etesting.

If you have an Advance Auto Parts store where ever you are, they will read the code and tell you exactly what to code is and what it means. Any mechanic who "guesses" isn't a mechanic at all - he's a thief. Emissions leak can be any number of things, but not the gas cap!