If I remember right, the alternator connects through the instrument cluster, so you want to check connectors and solder joints in the back of the cluster and then your charging should be back to normal.
SOURCE: 1992 Volvo 740 Wagon w/o Turbo: Timing Belt Needs Replaced
It is a right hand thread and you usually need an impact gun. Take the fan out of the way, to give you more room, I have found that helps.
SOURCE: 2002 Honda CR-V Battery Light needs to be reset
Get a code tool from the parts store. You can reset system with that.
SOURCE: Volvo S-60 03, non turbo B5244S, has had check
Replace the cat you have ran it for years with a bad 02 sensor so now replace it and you will get better performance and better gas miliage. Never run a check engine light fo a long time it's telling you something is wrong. youer lucky you did not destroy the engine.
SOURCE: fuel pump replacement
Make sure before you begin you obtain new fuel injection clamps, the tank to pump seal and a small length of fuel injection hose. Also obtain a new filter sock at the bottom of the pump. You may want to ask at the parts counter what size it is; but you'll need a small length of hose regardless of condition. Take extreme care working in the vincinity of gasoline, do not smoke or work near pilot lights or hot work lamps, as you will be releasing vapor that could ignite.
The fuel pump system on these models consists of a pump in the tank. Try to make sure the tank is nearly empty. On sedan models, peel back the trunk lining after removing the left side drain hose for the drip panels. It is secured by a clamp. Remove the 4 10mm bolts which secure the inspection cover.
Remove the negative battery cable.
On wagon models, fold the rear seat back assembly back, lift it up and remove the cover and carpet. Remove the inspection plate.
Either model of this vintage has the pump and sender assembly secured by a large plastic collar. Take care when removing it as it will be very tight and if you need to hammer at it it is best to use a length of PVC pipe and a mallet so that it won't crack if you hit it too hard. Remove the fuel hoses, taking care to avoid spillage by using old shop cloths to catch any residual fuel. Disconnect the electrical connections. Note that the old hose clamps may be rusted solid; carefully cut them off (do not attempt to use a saw or other tool as sparking may result) or soak them in a rust-removing compound. Carefully lift the pump and sending unit up and out of the tank, rotating through 90 degrees on the way out. Plug the open unions of the hoses to prevent debris from getting in.
These models contain the pump by way of a clip. Press up against the bottom of the spring loaded sender to release the clip and remove the pump. Some models may have an accumulator/damper at the top of the pump, it can be bypassed by a section of fuel injection hose and two clamps. You may have to solder on the connectors, sometimes they differ from year to year. Make sure you have the correct polarity when reconnecting the pump, or else it will run backwards. Install the new filter sock by pressing it on the bottom of the pump.
Installation is essentially a reversal of removal, noting to install a new tank to pump seal: Place the seal on the tank first, then place the pump assembly into the seal, as it is quite difficult to fit otherwise. Install new clamps wherever an old clamp was removed. Check carefully for leaks before driving the vehicle, and then install the inspection cover, trunk lining and drain hose.
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