VMy temperature gauge keeps going up and down when i drive my freelander

That can be a sign that the temp sensor is going cuput for being a 2004 it may not be a bad idea to replace it.. if that doesn't solve the issue than it may also be a wiring or even gauge cluster issue keep your fingers crossed it's the sensor

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CarGurusOct 2, 2014 - My thermostat gauge in the car is going up and down, what could be theproblem - My thermostat starts on cold and when i get in and drive it goes from low .... low to almost hot., and it jumps back and forth when I drive the car.

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Nov 30, 2010 - This morning I had a problem starting the car as it was -22F and when I finally started it my ... Now the temperature gauge still jumps right to the red zone (all the way to the right). There is no way that this is right as the engine is cold. ... Even if it were stuck closed, it would take a while for the car to warm up.

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The fan only operates when the engine/coolant temperature exceeds the thermostatically controlled fan. At idle observe the dash engine temperature and fan. Before the gauge reads above normal the fan should operate.

Don't forget to check the cabling to the dashboard , if the dial is rapidly moving up and down I would suggest , bad signal/sensor , poor grounding , your gauge I'm assuming jumps from C to mid way and back while driving , if it's jumping to H , stop driving as this would not be, no pun intended , cool!!

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Thanks.

This sounds more like the thermostat is not opening as it should, instead of an ECM problem.

With the indications you state - goes down when heater activated - goes down when moving, that is what I would have checked first, not the cooling fan!

lol..buy a new car! are you dting someone?

Possibly head gasket failure (HGF), do you need to keep topping it up with coolant? Are there any traces of oil in the coolant? Is there a mayonnaise like substance in the oil filler cap? If all of the above, then almost definitely head gasket failure.
If so, get the new multi layered steel gasket kit (available on ebay at a reasonable price), it includes the through bolts holding the engine together. Oil will need flushing, coolant will need flushing, head will need pressure testing. Cooling system MUST be free of airlocks when refilled, or the same thing could happen again.

Temperature gauge is notoriously inaccurate, mine blew a hose last year, all coolant lost, temperature gauge still read normal! Fortunately had just picked up a new hose, so road side repair (thanks to AA) was possible with no further damage. The gauge only measures water temperature, so when there is a coolant loss, and there is no coolant at the temperature sensor level, it stays at normal!!! Daft or what?
If coolant loss is the problem due to HGF, also try to get a new header bottle with a coolant level sensor, this will let you know when you suffer a coolant loss as soon as it happens.

It sounds like the cooling fan is not working, with the motor off look in front of the motor and there is a fan or 2, check the wiring and plugs, some times they corrode and can be cleaned with alloy wheel cleaner then water then spray oil in them otherwise the fuses and the thermo switch need checking.