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Virtually none. If you have significant crankshaft end play, and you are not leaking oil, don't worry about it. If you are leaking oil from the rear main seal or from the pulley seal, consider rebuilding or replacing your engine before it seizes.
Recommendation: DRIVE IT 'TIL IT DIES. Replacement engines for your vehicle are abundant and not particularly expensive.
jack up the rear end high and place chassis rails on stands. Remove wheels . disconnect brake hose to the rear and use a hose pincher to stop brake fluid leaking out . Disconnect the hand brake cable at a convenient point ( probably at the rear of the transmission. Disconnect the drive shaft at the diff pinion and lay to one side . Place the jack under the diff housing centre and take a bit of weight. . If you have leaf springs --undo the "U" bolts around the housing . If coil springs undo the track rods by removing all the pivot bush bolts. Lower the diff housing down and pull out from under the car. Make any changes you have to, to the other diff housing before placing it on the jack and placing it under the car Reassembly is the reverse process of removal.. Bleed rear brakes on completion of the job.
FBB}A}}435}937737" checked="checked" type="radio" name="userInterchange" />4x2, 3.08 ratio (opt GU4) FBB}B}}435}937738" type="radio" name="userInterchange" />4x2, 3.42 ratio (opt GU6) FBB}C}}435}937739" type="radio" name="userInterchange" />4x2, 3.73 ratio (opt GT4) FBB}C}}435}937740" type="radio" name="userInterchange" />4x4, 3.73 ratio (opt GT4) FBB}D}}435}937741" type="radio" name="userInterchange" />4x4, 4.10 ratio (opt GT5)
you know since it's a 4x4 the front and rear axle HAVE to be the same.
hub took the place of old wheel bearing know they are seald bearings easy to replace remove brake calaper an three or four bolts an king nut if fourwheel drive sorry i cant spell haha
WELL IF YOU CHANGE THE REAREND THAT DONT HAVE NOTHING TO DO W/PUTTING IT 4 WHEEL DRIVE BECAUSE ITS THE FRONT ONE THAT LOCKS IN . MAYBE YOU BRAKES ARE DRAGGING ON THE REAR END ADJUST BRAKES AN SEE IF THAT HELPS .
since you really don't have that much cash and it takes a lot of experience to rebuild a rear end along with special tools swapping the whole axle is your best bet, just keep whichever parts are the best ie brake shoes drums etc
as long as width , lug pattern and drum or disc match up will work , if ratio differs fuel mileage issues will occur , should be rear end code in glovebox for refernce
you can count the teeth on the ring gear and divide that # by the tooth count on the pinion. An example is: ring gear 100, pinion 10 ...100divided by 10 is 10, expressed as 10 to one. (fake #) your diff is likely a 3 series such as 3.23 to 1. or a four series such as 4.11 to 1. If you have four wheel drive it is critical to match exactly. if not you can get better performance by changing ratio to something that better fits your needs. 4 series pull loads well, 3 series are better on fuel.(depending upon terrain)
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!
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