Rare car, how cute. its a 1.3L what ,its EFI , not carb.
the ECT and guage are not related at all.
each has its own sensors.
dont use a torch you will kill it, use hot water man.
please..................
the guage is a 1 wire sensor. it has a different resistance profile than
the EFI Engine coolant sensor ECT. is a different sensor.
the EFI sensor 2 pins, reads 300 ohms hot and about 3000 ohms cold.
hot is 200 F, not torch 2000f hot. for sure. never exceed 212f on any sensor ever.
I must presume you are futzing the wrong sensor.
first off, I will cover just the gauge, and the fsm is on line
for free, and you can read the guage tests. they are simple simon,
see here, see the books?
http://www.acksfaq.com/sitemap.htm
im and expert on the sidekicks but they are close to sammi.
infact its and evolutionary change.
the guage sender is sold everywhere, and has unique spec.s.
ill use rockauto.com so you can see them all. sold.
first off the guage has very low resistance,as does the gauge sender
that is because is thermal acting the guage gets hot and the needle moves, very very crude this. very very old school stuff.
they did the bs until 1995.
chapter 21. electrics. sammi.
page 21-12 , fuel level meter and guage.
direct link to that here.
http://www.acksfaq.com/86-87_410_FSM.htm
see that?
pdf page 145
use a 194 lamp and ground the yellow wire as shown
meter goes upscale the meter is good.
now the sender.
is RTC reverse temperature coeffiecent, that is
hotter = lower ohms. pdf page 146 left.
122f is about 155 ohms
176F = about 50 ohms
212f (boiling water) is 28 ohms and gauge shows HOT.
that is it for the 1 wire sensor.
stupidly they say to put sealing tap on threads,
dont, or you get an open ground. amazing...
tighten firmly or risk cracking the intake. its a tapered British thread.
now the rock. the right sensor for JUST the Guage , coolant.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1271135&parttype=4748
a real FSM
and a real source of parts, 1 post.
all for free,
SOURCE: Temperature gauge problem on a 1987 Samurai
There's two sending units in the intake. The little on with single prong at the t-stat housing is for the guage and the bigger one plastic connector is for ecm.
Your signal is getting grounded somewhere.
SOURCE: The fuel and temperature gauges are pegged out on
I just had a similar issue with my 1995 Buick century. My issue started out with the gage being almost pegged with the car off. When I turned the key to run it pegged the gage completely. I first called AutoZone and they told me it was either the temperature sensor, thermostat, or gage.
I knew that my thermostat wasn’t bad because I replaced it a while back. I then checked my sensor; I unhooked the two pin connector of this sensor at the block and suspected the needle to drop to zero. This was not the case.
I then checked my wires using a multimeter to verify that there was no short at my firewall. My wiring was fine.
I then called a family mechanic and he instructed me that there is also a "temperature switch" that also is interconnected to the coolant temperature gage. I then found this switch which was threaded into the block near the firewall of my car. I unhooked the 2 pin connector and suspected that the gage would return to the neutral position. And sure enough it did!!
This could have been a heck of a lot easier if AutoZone could have told me that my car has a "temperature switch". But non the less it was only a $15 fix!
First try unhooking your sensors and switch to see if this is the problem, I would lastly suspect your gage to fail!
Good Luck
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