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Posted on Apr 17, 2009

What are the proper lug nuts to use on my 97 rodeo with 16" wheel

I bought a used '97 Rodeo with 16" steel wheels and chrome (plastic) hub centers and I don't think the lug nuts are the correct ones. With the ones I have they are unable to tighten against the wheel and instead tighten against the hub center. To tighten too tight would risk breaking the wheel centers. It would seem to me that an odd shaped lug nut would be needed to go through each of the lug holes on the center cap that would reach the wheel but also have a shoulder or something to hold the cap down at the same time. Or do I need two lug nuts for each lug hole? Thank you to anyone that can help me. Pictures would certainly help!

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  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009
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The lugs should have a flat washer and a spring washer the lug should have a long cylinder shape on one end that is tapered to tighten up the wheel the washers hold the plastic hubs in place you might try a wrecking yard or a dealer for them

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My 1999 Isuzu Rodeo 4x4 four wheel disk rear wheels will not come off even without the lug nuts, why?

Because the wheels are corroded to the hub, causing it to seize. Leave one nut threaded on just a few turns (so your wheel doesn't go flying), get a big hammer and hit the inside of the tire with a good solid shot. That wheel will break loose pretty quick. Good luck!
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Depends if the studs are pressed in or an as built unit. Have a look at what the stud looks like and if it appears to have little grooves in the back side, you can hammer out the other 2 and then replace. I would also look into why the studs are having that much force that they are being sheered off.
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First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.
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First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.

1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.

2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.

3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.

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Front brake rotor on 1992 Ford Ranger 4wd with auto lock in

With Automatic Locking Hubs
  1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
  2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
  4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
  5. Remove the axle shaft spacer
  6. Being careful not to damage the plastic moving cam or thrust spacers, pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
  7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
  8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch Hex Locknut Wrench T70T-4252-B or equivalent.
  9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
  10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
  11. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut. WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. The wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.
  12. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
  13. Install the axle shaft spacer.
  14. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
  15. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle by lining up the three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
  16. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).
  17. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08 mm (0.000-0.003 inch). the maximum torque to rotate the hub is 2.8 Nm (25 in lb).

1helpful
3answers

Front wheel lugs are breaking

Hello, Are you using the factory wheels? If you are using aftermarket wheels, the wheel center might not be fitting snugly on the hub like it should causing the wheel to move slightly. The bolts aren't the only thing you need to keep the wheel centered. If the wheel starts moving up and down it will eventually break the studs.
If you find this information to be correct would you please enter a "fixya" rating.
Thanks, Gator241

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