Built up pressure inside radiator and coolant come

That there are deposits (probably from using tap water in the coolant system instead if distilled water) which have built up. They are built up in the entire cooling system including the radiator and heater core as well as the cooling passages inside the engine. The entire system needs to be flushed...it may take multiple times to completely clean it out. Then the system needs to be refilled with coolant and distilled water

2.3L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
4. Remove upper and lower exhaust manifold heat shields.
5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
6. Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
7. Raise and safely support the vehicle. NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
   
8. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
   1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
   2. Remove the other bolt.
   3. Remove the first bolt.
9. Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
10. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump.
11. Carefully lower the vehicle.
12. Remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
13. Loosen and reposition the rear engine mount and bracket for clearance, as required.
14. Remove the water pump mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover assembly, then separate the two pieces.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The reservoir is used to catch overflow coolant after the coolant heats up and the cooling system builds pressure. Since you said there are no visable signs of a leak, if your coolant doesn't have a correct mixture of water/coolant or if you're just using water (I've seen this done many times) it will vaporize. Ethylene glycol has a high boiling point water doesn't. If you have a 50/50 mix you're good and I would suggest that you may have either a blown head or intake gasket and your coolant may be either seeping into engine or blowing through exhaust system. First check your dipstick, if your oil is really black change it, if it's muddy looking it has water in it. If not start your vehicle let it warm up for a few minutes and check your exhaust for any moisture dripping from tail pipes and you would smell a distinct antifreeze smell too. I would also first open the drain valve at the bottom of my radiator and run water through your radiator neck and run your vehicle until the coolant is flushed out and only clear water is coming out (be sure to note the condition of your coolant, if there's a lot of **** or rust in the system, your radiator cores may be stopped up and not allowing flow to pass through them) then replace with 50/50 coolant mixture.

Water Pump REMOVAL & INSTALLATION CAUTION
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old. 2.4L Engine

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
2. Detach the Oxygen (O2) sensor electrical connector.
3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for a more complete coolant drain.
4. Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
6. Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
7. Break the manifold-to-exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts loose using a 13mm box wrench.
8. Raise and safely support the vehicle. NOTE: It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.
   
9. Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
10. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
    1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
    2. Remove the other bolt.
    3. Remove the first bolt. NOTE: DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4°or damage may occur.
       
11. Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
12. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
13. Carefully lower the vehicle.
14. Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
15. Remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
16. Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces. Fig. 1: Water pump and cover mounting - 2.4L engine
    To install:
    
17. Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
18. Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
19. Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slide the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
20. With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
    1. Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts:19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    2. Pump cover-to-pump assembly: 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
    3. Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first: 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
    4. Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover: 125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
21. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
22. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
23. Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
24. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
25. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan.
26. Install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
27. Install the lower heat shield.
28. Carefully lower the vehicle.
29. Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
30. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
31. Install the upper heat shield.
32. Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
33. Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
34. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine OFF.
35. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level, then install the radiator cap.

PLEASE DON'T FORGET TO RATE! THANKS! 2.3L & 2.4L Engines

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable
   
2. Detach the oxygen sensor connector.
   
3. Properly drain the engine coolant into a suitable container. Remove the heater hose from the thermostat housing for more complete coolant drain.
   
4. Remove upper exhaust manifold heat shield.
   
5. Remove the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
   
6. Remove the lower exhaust manifold heat shield.
   
7. Break loose the manifold to exhaust pipe spring loaded bolts using a 13mm box wrench.
   
8. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   

It is necessary to relieve the spring pressure from 1 bolt prior to removing the second bolt. If the spring pressure is not relieved, it will cause the exhaust pipe to twist and bind up the bolt as it is removed.

1. Unfasten the two radiator outlet pipe-to-water pump cover bolts.
   
2. Remove the manifold to exhaust pipe bolts from the exhaust pipe flange as follows:
   
   1. Unscrew either bolt clockwise 4 turns.
      
   2. Remove the other bolt.
      
   3. Remove the first bolt.
      

On the 2.4L engines, DO NOT rotate the flex coupling more than 4° or damage may occur.

1. Pull down and back on the exhaust pipe to disengage it from the exhaust manifold bolts.
   
2. Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the exhaust manifold brace. Leave the lower radiator hose attached and pull down on the outlet pipe to remove it from the water pump. Leave the radiator outlet pipe hang.
   
3. Carefully lower the vehicle.
   
4. Unfasten the exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head retaining nuts, then remove the exhaust manifold, seals and gaskets.
   
5. For the 2.4L engine, remove the front timing chain cover and the chain tensioner. For details, please refer to the procedure located later in this section.
   
6. Unfasten the water pump-to-cylinder block bolts. Remove the water pump-to-timing chain housing nuts. Remove the water pump and cover mounting bolts and nuts. Remove the water pump and cover as an assembly, then separate the two pieces.
   

Water pump and cover mounting-2.3L and 2.4L engines

To install:

1. Thoroughly clean and dry all mounting surfaces, bolts and bolt holes. Using a new gasket, install the water pump to the cover and tighten the bolts finger-tight.
   
2. Lubricate the splines of the water pump with clean grease and install the assembly to the engine using new gaskets. Install the mounting bolts and nuts finger-tight.
   
3. Lubricate the radiator outlet pipe O-ring with antifreeze and slid the pipe onto the water pump cover. Install the bolts finger-tight.
   
4. With all gaps closed, tighten the bolts, in the following sequence, to the proper values:
   
   1. Pump assembly-to-chain housing nuts-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
      
   2. Pump cover-to-pump assembly-106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
      
   3. Cover-to-block, bottom bolt first-19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
      
   4. Radiator outlet pipe assembly-to-pump cover-125 inch lbs. (14 Nm).
      
5. Using new gaskets, install the exhaust manifold. Make sure to following the tightening sequence and torque specifications given in the exhaust manifold procedure located in this section.
   
6. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
   
7. Index the exhaust manifold bolts into the exhaust pipe flange.
   
8. Connect the exhaust pipe to the manifold. Install the exhaust pipe flange bolts evenly and gradually to avoid binding. Turn the bolts in until fully seated.
   
9. Connect the radiator outlet pipe to the transaxle and oil pan. Install the exhaust manifold brace, if removed.
   
10. On the 2.4L engine, install the timing chain tensioner and front cover.
    
11. Install the lower heat shield.
    
12. Carefully lower the vehicle.
    
13. Fasten the bolt that attaches the exhaust manifold brace to the manifold.
    
14. Tighten the manifold-to-exhaust pipe nuts to specification.
    
15. Install the upper heat shield.
    
16. Attach the oxygen sensor connector.
    
17. Fill the radiator with coolant until it comes out the heater hose outlet at the thermostat housing. Then connect the heater hose. Leave the radiator cap off.
    
18. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens, fill the radiator and recovery tank to their proper levels, then turn the engine off.
    
19. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.
    

The coolant light is warning low coolant level. If left unchecked then overheating will follow. Find out where the coolant is leaking from. Look around the engine bay for a brown stain in a arc perpendicular to the water pump pulley. Water pumps as they age often leak through the water seal at the centre and as the engine runs this water spins off the pulley around the engine bay. Check all pipe unions and the radiator core for leaks. Then check the interior heater unit supply and return pipes and unions - check the foot well carpets fro tell tale dampness. Check the filler cap rubber seal is good - enough to hold the coolant pressure. Check the inside of the oil filler cap for white mayonnaise build up - if there is it could be head gasket leak. Lastly check the exhaust for white gases (steam) and remove the plugs one at a time to check them. If water leaks into a cylinder(s) the plug(s) will look clean

check the electric fan conector plug some times is rusti scratchet whit a sharp scruwdriver remove the rusti or dirt on it this happens many times and step two check the relay and thats it (this is the first step a mecanic to search)

That vehicle has the transmission cooler built into the radiator. You may not be leaking oil into the coolant, but transmission fluid, they both make the same mess. Replacing the radiator will probably fix your problem. Let me know if this helped.

2.4 enigine is the harder of the 3 enignes. it will need a timing chain to be removed and a coolant tube in the back of the engine to be removed. this job on the book calls for almost 7 hours.

if its 3.3 or 3100 its alot easier.

3100 is just 4 10mm pulley bolts and 5 or 6 small 8mm water pump bolts.

3.3 is alittle more work, but same concept as 3100 engine. more owkr only cause its in a tighter area.

good luck,
michael

Sounds like you have a partially plugged radiator. Try flushing it out and see if the problem changes at all. When flushing, force water to flow backwards from the normal flow direction this usually frees up some of the debris built up on the core passage ends. If you must, remove the radiator to do this. Depending on accessability, I usually just tape up the end of a garden hose and put it into the outlet on the radiator (but have gotten as radical as using a pool pump and lime out to do this job!
Is there any coolant in the engine oil or trans?