SOURCE: 1998 FORD E-250 WITH 5.4L V8. RIGHT SIDE UPSTREAM
the sensor probe and heater element are 2 different parts crammed into the nice little casing you see in your hand, so the probe could be fine but the heater element f***ed, easy test would be to switch it with the same one on the other side and see if the problem goes with the sensor or stays on the same side, if it stays then you have a wiring issue. if it goes to the other side then replace the sensor unit.
SOURCE: How do i buy online the oxygen sensors for a 2001?
The oxygen sensor are just refered to as upstream for the o2s and down stream are actually refered to as catalytic monitors. So if you have lean or rich codes these would refer to the upstream .
SOURCE: I have a 1997 Ford Taurus right-hand drive
Hello! I am sending two diagrams...#1 is O2 sensor location and #2 is a vacuum diagram...Before you spend a lot of money replacing O2 sensors lets eliminate other possible causes of heater circuit failure...O2's have heater circuits to bring them up to high temperature quickly so the computer (PCM) will have close control...I would suspect poor grounding, or connector contact corrosion...If you have an ohm meter...Set it on the X10 scale...Measure from center of the negative battery post to the chassis (bare metal)...And then to the engine block...Record both readings...Radio Shack sells a no-touch contact cleaner called DEOXIT...Spray a very small amount on all O2 connectors (male and female)...Oxidation is chemically removed...Re-connect...
Check all vacuum lines for broken, cracked, loose or collapsed...Send results....Guru...Saailer
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867
SOURCE: po133 o2 circuit slow bank1, snesor 1 Where is
There are 4 such sensors on your car. this sensor is on the passenger side of the car just below where the exhaust manifold attaches to the exhaust pipe. There is a similar one on the driver's side and the other two are downstream of the catalytic converters. See picture below and let me know if you have more questions.
SOURCE: Service engine soon light is
Hi, no, don't do that. The code 174 indicates a vacuum leak--not a bad sensor. The leak can be anywhere downstream of the mass airflow sensor on the inlet pipe. Sometimes the rubber pipe itself tears/cracks, or maybe there is a loose vacuum hose or a torn brake booster diaphram. Check all the hoses attached to the engine intake manifold for a leak at either end or in between.
If all hoses are good, next check the intake manifold askets for leaks. Get yourself a can of carb cleaner and start the engine. Spray the gaskets all around. If the engine speed changes, you have a gasket leak--replace the gaskets. Since you have a code 174 and NOT a code 171, this is the most likely cause of the problem, because only the rigt bank is running lean. Be sure to check the gaskets on that passenger side carefully.
Last of all, if all that was good, check to see if your EGR valve is stuck open. I have pasted instructions for removing the valve below (from autozone.com). Please let me know if you have questions and thanks for using FixYa.
EGR valve R&R.
To install:
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