Question about 2006 Chrysler 300
Posted by Anonymous on
Definitely possible that your vehicle was secured incorrectly for towing.
Posted on Feb 15, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
oh yes, this is a problem with most all chrysler cars, front wheel drive, they will not admit to it or fix the problem though. just give us 2 or $300 and we'll repair it. bs. you need a bushing replacement kit, autozone under 10 bucks. and a little patients. drop me an email and i will upload photos of steps and try to talk you through it. not that hard no special tools only took 45min. no charge of course. you have to stick it to the system some times.
Posted on Mar 18, 2009
Cut band clamp. use tie wrap. Special tool to remove inner tie rod. Autozone or others have them to rent. Must align after replacement
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Try grounding the engine, they may have moved, removed, or broken the ground straps.
Take a jumper cable from the black(NEG) post to a bolt or clean piece of metal on the the engine.
And see if it starts.
Also check the connection at the starter, in case they had it disconnected during the repair.
Hope this helps.
Posted on May 09, 2009
I just did the inner tie rod bushings on my 1999 300M, piece of cake! Get a Chiltons, it tells you to remove the windshield wipers, the plastic cowl covers, and the strut tower brace (looks like part of the body at first but 4 bolts on either side and one in the middle and toss it to the side). Remove the air intake ducting, and your there like underwear.use a long screwdriver and a big hammer and tap the bottom tangs down, pry up the top ones (once you get it started enough to get a screwdriver under it its easy) then use a 7/8 socket, 3/4 drive breaker bar and unbolt. One bushing was still intact so I drove it out with a large socket and a small C-clamp. Getting the bolts back in the rack with the new bushings was the dirty little bastard of the whole thing ( I didn't center the steering rack like your supposed to do, because I thought I knew a better way, I wanted the rack as far to the passenger side as possible for more room to work). You have to fight with the steering rack boot to line everything back up. Even with wheels of the ground it made me use ALOT of foul language. Torque the bolts to 60 ft lbs and your golden. The whole thing took about an hour and a half (about 15 minutes of that was cussin'). I hope this helps someone.
Posted on Sep 07, 2009
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