At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
Before you try removing the headlight housings, check for a blown fuse first, since the headlight circuits on these cars are fused. The fuse is located on the regular fuse panel inside the car, on the left side of the dashboard behind the removable cover.
Well, since there are no visible screws anywhere around, how do I get the headlight out? It’s not that hard at all.
Open the hood. Locate the seam between the nosepiece and the front fender (either side). Go up between the first two fender mounting bolts and look down a few inches. See a small knob sticking out at you? That is a release lever for the headlight assembly. Push in on it slightly and pull all the way up as far as the lever will go.
Now push on the headlight from behind with one hand and be prepared to catch the assembly with the free hand from the front. It may take a bit of a push because there is some gooey adhesive between the headlight and the fender.
Once you have the headlight out, pull the connector off the back of the housing and take the headlight somewhere where it is easy to work on. Put it on a pillow or something soft so you don’t risk scratching the lens.
There is a black plastic cover on the back of the housing. See a tab on it? Push on this tab and pull the cover down to expose the bulbs.
There is a metal spring clip that holds these bulbs in place. Undo this and the bulb will fall out. Take out the new bulb and compare it with the one you are replacing. Make sure the wattage is correct, since they are both H1 bulbs.
Never touch the glass part of the bulb itself with your fingers.
Use the soft cloth to handle the bulb if needed. Line up the tabs of the bulb base with the slots in the reflector housing and drop the bulb in. Put the spring clip back on and make sure the ends of the clip are in securely. Put the bulb cover back on.
Now is the time to clean up the mess around the fender where the headlight mounts. Remember seeing that nasty-looking goo seep out from around the rubber seal on your headlights? That’s the adhesive I was talking about earlier.
Take the adhesive remover on the paper towels and remove this stuff from the fender before putting the headlight back in. Don’t remove all of it from behind the headlight itself, as it is there to keep excess amounts of water from getting behind the headlight. Just remove enough to where it won’t make a mess anymore. A little wax around the mounting area on the fender will detail things out nicely.
Position the headlight up to the fender. Push on the wire connector. Line up the tabs on the headlight assembly to the slots in the headlight housing in the fender and push the whole thing in. Sometimes things won’t line up on the first try, but keep trying. The headlight should go up against the fender fairly easily.
Once you get it to this point, grab the release lever, push all the way down, and lock the headlight assembly into place.
If you are sure you have a key off battery drain, what you need to do is connect an ammeter to the negative side of the battery(disconnect the negative battery cable and connect one side of the ammeter to the battery terminal and one side to the and one side to the battery cable) note the reading and start pulling fuses one at a time making sure to put them back in their proper slot when the reading an the ammeter goes down to normal the short will be on the circuit of the fuse you have pulled if any part of these instructions is too difficult have the problem checked by a dealer
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Check to make sure that the rubber o-ring going into the heater core located under the hood on the passenger side does not need replaced. Also check the water pump, these are both very common problems with volkswagen.
sounds like another plastic rad has bitten the dust,replace the rad or hose if its split and refill with antifreeze and see what happens ,if ok then good if not post here again for more advice
Ok, have your coolind system backflushed. Your heater core could be clogged. This could have been caused in using the wrong antifreeze system or mixing the green with the vw g-12 antifreeze. This could ran you about $110 to 150 dollars at a radiator shop...stay away from the Jidffy lube or oil doctor's . This could be your cheaper alternative to solution to your problem..good luck..
×