Volkswagen Microbus 2.5i clutch does not work

if you cant determine whats leaking to repair bring to a shop that will and do it soon if steering fails or breaks accident can happen

If you break fluid level is correct and your break pedal goes down to the floor means that your master cylinder is going bad and you might loose your breaks completely if not checked or replaced. Your breaking system is down to the last O ring inside the master cylinder, once that rubber O rings goes you will not have any breaks at all. Master cylinders have a number of rubber O rings that work like a plunger or piston that produce pressure within the breaking system. When the first one wears down due to age, your pedal begins to loose break pressure and you have to pump your breaks several times to gain breaking. You are now down to the last rubber O ring and a warning that your master cylinder needs to be checked. You can still use your breaks but only for a few days before the other rubber O ring gives out too. Once both O rings give out you completely loose your breaks.

Check the fluid-reservoir for your clutch. If there is low/no fluid, top it up. Pump the pedal a few times first .. and check underneath the car for a fluid leak.

If the fluid reservoir is full, don't bother checking under the car for leaks.

Usually, the clutch master cylinder has a 'nipple' - a bleed point. Get someone to pump the clutch pedal for you a few times and keep it pressed down. Place a rag on the nipple and slightly undo the nut. Any air in the system should be forced out. You may have to open/close the nipple (nut) 2 or 3 times whilst somebody pumps and holds down the clutch pedal.

If there is no nipple/nut on the clutch master cylinder, follow the metal tube back up into the engine compartment and bleed the air out of it by putting a cloth around the topmost point where it connects to something else, and slightly undo the connection. The clutch pedal should be pressed down whilst you do this ..

If there's no air forced out of the hydraulic line or the clutch still does not build pressure, it may well be that the rubber ring inside clutch master cylinder is perished. You either have to fit a new rubber ring or replace the clutch master cylinder.

Replacing the clutch master cylinder is the best option. The bore of the master cylinder can wear - become 'ovalled' over time. Fitting a new rubber ring into a master cylinder that has a worn bore is only a short-term cure.

A perished rubber ring or worn clutch cylinder bore simply allows hydraulic fluid to be 'moved' without becoming pressurised

Check the level in the clutch master cylinder. If the fluid is brake fluid from the clutch cylinder, you will have to replace the clutch master cylinder. When bad, it is common for them to leak into the car and drip fluid on the carpet.
If you have the tools and so inclined, you can change it yourself. Not very hard,. 2 bolts hold it to the firewall, the pin or clip holding the clutch pedal rod to the cylinder (under the dash), then remove the steel line on the cylinder. (The steel line goes down to the transmission, to the little slave cylinder. After new master cylinder is installed, you need to bleed the slave cylinder to get air out of the lines.)

the bellows are the the plastic tubes that protect the inner tie rod end/rack from dirt and water. If there is fluid coming out of the bellows than the rack is leaking. The normal repair is to replace the rack with either a remanufactured or new rack and pinion.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

The fluid in the reservoir shouldn't be moving. Pushing the peddle should move the fluid
IN the master cylinder which then moves the slave cylinder. If the reservoir is going down then you have a leak somewhere. Sometimes leaks are contained by the rubber caps on master or slave
cylinder rods and you don't see the fluid unless u check behind the cap.

No, the boot only keeps dust out of the inner tie rod joint--it is not intended to hold back fluid. The rack will have to be rebuilt with new seals. Sorry. :o(

You can try to adjust the clutch cable if it has a cable, if its hydrualyic clutch then i would say theres a problem with the clutch plate or preasure plate, but first check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder if its low then you may have a leak, most of the time its the slave cylinder or master that leak, the master is what the clutch pedal pushes which inturn send fluid to the slave cylinder at the trany which pushes the cltuch fork,so start by seeing if its hydraulic which i think it is. then fluid check if low check for leaks.

clutch master cylinder is located drivers side firewall,right next to brake master cylinder. it has small shot glass size fluid resevoir mounted above it,fluid is fed through hose down into clutch master. clutch master cylinder has a rod mounter on ft of it that goes through firewall and attaches to clutch pedal under dash . clutch slave cylinder is mounted on ft passenger side of transmission assy. most common leak is from master cylinder,you would be able to look under dash ,follow clutch pedal up to where it attatched to clutch master pushrod.follow that rod to wear it meets up to a small 1 1/2" or so rubber boot.fluid will be leaking from that boot if master is leaking.

Regarding the steering, check the tightness of the power steering belt and the steering fluid. Some places can flush the fluid if necessary. Check for leaks at the power steering lines and the inner tie-rod boots if the fluid is low. If the fluid is ok, no leaks and the belt is tight the pump may be going or the steering rack could be binding which means replacement of either if that's the case. If the pump groans loudly when turning that will indicate a problem. If the belt is squealing it may be too loose, worn or the pump pulley may be binding.
Good luck