At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
I have a 1998 ford ranger and the temperture gauge will not work. If i ground the wire that goes to sensor the gauge moves I replace the sensor and nothing happens the gauge never moves.
Re: I have a 1998 ford ranger and the temperture gauge...
When you grounded the wire which goes to the sensor you produced a short to ground thru the guage. This probably either blew a fuse or burned out the meter.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Are you saying the maf sensor is new? Did you check the wire connector and wiring before you replaced it? When you unplugged it, the computer may use a default value? The red wire is battery voltage, check for voltage, key on. the black wire is ground, You can use a test lite connected to battery voltage, touch the black wire terminal, if the lite comes on, at least, the ground is good enough to turn on the lamp. The lite blue wire with red tracer is signal return, that is a ground that goes to computer. Use a computer safe test lite, maybe an led. Usually they don't recommend a 12 volt test lite for a ground that goes to computer. The tan wire with lite blue tracer is maf signal to computer. Key on engine off, less than .7 volts. koer--.2--1.5volts depending on the idle.
My database is probably not the best, any colleague that has better info is certainly welcome to post, have a good day.
This could be a bad sending unit, it goes to full when wires are disconnected. the way to test your sending unit would be with a ohm meter connected to the wires and as you move the float the readings will go up or down, if they do not then sending unit is bad, if it is stuck on full it is hard to test by just removing the connector because reading should go to full when connector is unplugged, try jumping the wires at connector and see if it goes to empty, if it does then gauge and wiring are good and sender is bad. good day
connector may be loose at the temperature sensor. connector should be snug on the sensor. If necessary, bend the terminals carefully to make firm contact. If this does not solve the problem, you may want to replace the sensor. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
There is a connector/sensor with green or red ring in the heater pipe on the back.
Assuming all your other instruments are functioning ok, disconnect the sender wire and ground it against the cylinder head, (ignition on). If the gauge needle then moves, you should replace the sender unit.
hi check the simple things first fuses then take the temperture senders wire off and ground it get someone to watch the temp gauge if the gauge is ok it will move straight into the hot if so change the sender switch then do the same with the fuel tanks sender unit wire if gauge is ok it will show full now presumming the gauges are moving and the fuses are ok the problem is on the clocks some cars have a removeable stablizer between the gauges if so it is a simple fix yates210456
1.9 liter engine:
×