I have a 405 peoguet .the mototr rotates but refuse to start except when the computer ( controll ) wire on the right side which conects to the relay of the fuse box of the fuel pumb is directly grounded to the car body .I keep it now coneced and disconected the computer wire to keep the car runs. please advise me how to solve the problem in the right way .

note the diagram for starter relay, the relay has two sides, the switch side, left side in diagram. The control side, right side in diagram. If you used jumper on the switch side and it cranked, but, w/o the jumper, it wouldn't, check the control side of relay for voltage and ground. You can see 15 amp fuse, goes hot with key in the crank position. Also note the transmission range sensor. The bottom black wire on control side is chassis ground. By using jumper on switch side of relay, it bypasses the control side. good luck

First off you need to know what your dealing with . This vehicle's starting system is computer controlled ! If the SECURITY light is lit on the dash you can change starters an batteries an alternators all you want, it's still not going to start .
Circuit Description (Key Start)
When the ignition switch is placed in the Start position, a discrete signal is supplied to the body control module (BCM) notifying it that the ignition is in the Start position. The BCM then sends a message to the engine control module (ECM) notifying it that CRANK has been requested. The ECM verifies that the transmission is in Park or Neutral. If it is, the ECM then supplies 12 volts to the control circuit of the starter relay. When this occurs, battery positive voltage is supplied through the switch side of the starter relay to the S terminal of the starter solenoid.
My suggestion to you would be to take your Vehicle to a ASE certified repair shop or the dealer ,where they have the equipment to deal with this . If knew about the starter relay you could test right from the relay .
VEHICLE RELAYS Operation Diagnosis Are the battery cable connections clean an tight ? Does anything work on the car ,headlamps , dash lights ,radio etc... This relay this guy is showing is for a horn circuit but same thing for starter circuit , except the control side where the engine computer applies battery voltage to pin 86 an pin 85 goes to ground G-111
G111 (LZE/LZ4/LZG)
(CKTs 50, 451) Left front of the engine compartment on the transmission to engine bolt above the starter
Harness Routing Views
--
G111 (LS4)
(CKTs 50, 451) Left front of the engine compartment on the transmission to engine bolt below the starter

hi robbiem i would change the module its fitted on to the motor 9 times out of 10 thats what goes first of all check the wires inside the rubber sleave that goes from the car body to the door it could b a broken wire

no, not likely. And a dry hose is a good sign, but a hose wet with gas is a sure sign of a failed pressure regulator. Your problem may be the pump not priming the fuel system. Here's how it is supposed to work: when you turn the key to on, computer will signal the fuel pump relay to turn on for about two seconds, and without a cranking signal from the engine, computer will then turn the pump off. When key is turned to crank, the computer will then turn pump back on-when engine is cranking or running, the pump is on continuously. But just turning the key to on, you should hear the pump run for about two seconds, and that will pressurize the fuel system.
At those times when it doesn't want to start, you should test the fuel pressure to see if the fuel rail is pressurized. If no pressure or low pressure, diagnose the wiring at the fuel pump relay. The relay is very simple- 4 prongs, 2 on the power side, and 2 on the coil side. The power side has a hot at all times wire and then the wire going to the pump. The coil side of the relay has a wire from the engine computer, and the other coil side wire is a ground. When the coil side is energtized by the wire from the computer, the relay is switched on and will pass power from the hot wire to the pump. So if the pump doesn't come on briefly to prime the system, the computer may not be signalling the relay, or there is a wiring problem around the relay. Good luck. You might just try a different relay-maybe yours is sticky and not responding.

since you have been attacking the rotational mechanisms of the engine, I would have to assume that the problem you are facing is related to the turning over of the engine. Get a remote starter button and attach it directly to the starter and see if that get the starter rotating. If not then you are looking are either a bad power cable or starter solenoid. If so, the you are looking for a bad wire from the starter to the relay (or starter controller), a bad relay (or starter controller) or bad wire between steering column and relay. Check to see if there is voltage on one side of the relay socket (relay removed) when the key is switched to start position.

glow plug light and glow plug are not on same system
check at gow plug conection (top of valve cover both side
follow from relay front valve vover right side silver box)
power 12 volts on all 4 wires in both conector left and right
if not replace relay if 12 volts relay ok (test light clip on ground)
then check glow plug (test light clip on positive ) touch wires going
to glow plug should light up if ok (quick test ) if any fail replaced
if all seems ok look at the oil injection system most common
problem with these motors I have yet to replaced a glow plug or relay

All the wires except the small red one from the starter go on the left side of the solenoid. Put the small red wire on the right side of the solenoid.Good luck.

Hmm, perhaps it is time for a noisy solution.

Get a 30 amp relay and wire the fans via directly to the battery via that relay. Of course, disconnecting them from where that are wired into the vehicle now.

For the fan control to the relay, wire something that is (+) when the ignition is in the 'run' position.

This, of course, is the quick n dirty fix. While this will work, you have an always on, noisy solution, and it will take quite some time for your vehicle to warm up in the winter time.

Just an idea should you not be able to correct the factory wiring, of which I have no idea.

Best of luck,
Rob

may be a starter moter problem

well if the drivers side window controll works but the others don't it doesnt look like a fuse or a relay problem. My advice is to check and see if the wireing clips for the window is conected. You would have to take off the door panel wich is held on by 3 or 4 screws and a few plastic clips, check both sides if they are connected you may have a break in the wire somewere or your window regulator motor could have gone bad. If they aren't connected just push them together an they should work.