SOURCE: My battery keeps dying but my alternator is fine
First, DON"T check your alternator that way anymore. It's not good to do on newer systems! The best, quickest check I can tell you is to put a volt meter across the battery. Running with accessories off you should see voltage of about 13.5 to 14.5.
With all accessories and headlamps on high turned on, it should not drop below 12.5. (and that is the absolute low end!).
It sounds like something in the car is staying on. check the glovebox light and interior light delay and make sure they are OK. Otherwise, you will have to start checking entire system for a draw that's taking out the battery overnight. To check, you can pull one fuse at a time and see if draw goes away, then check system that fuse serves.
SOURCE: Battery needs jump start if car is not driven for 3 days.
u either have a shorted cell in the battery or the system has a current draw like a glove box light being left on, try disconnecting the battery the next time you leave it, if it starts ok then u have a current draw and need to find the source of that draw.
SOURCE: mazda tribute 2005 want start
have battery load tested at locale auto parts. you may have a bad cell .if ok sounds like a selinoid problem
SOURCE: Check gauge light came on in my 1999 dodge
Charge your battery to full charge, next if you have a test light hook up the negative cable to the battery then with the test light touch one end to the positive battery cable and one to the positive post, is the light on? if yes is it bright? if yes Check your glove box and remove the glove box light check the light again, is it still bright? then check the rear cargo lamp and see if it's on if not, remove the bulb anyway and check the light one more time. if the light is still bright disconnect the light from the positive cable and the battery and then disconnect the positive wire to the alternator once it is disconnected do the light test again. Hook light to post and to the positive cable, is the light still bright? if no It's the alternator diode trio regulator Bridge, if it's still bright hook up the alternator wire again and then with the hood up and the hood light disconnected or the bulb pulled, locate the fuse panel and remove one fuse at a time, while you watch the light be sure to have the bulb out of the dome light so it does not give you a false reading. Now pull one fuse at a time if the light goes out thats where you have a problem on that circuit, on the fuse panel lid it will have it marked as what it is you can let me know what circuit it is and I can tell you how to check that circuit or if you prefer you can go to http://www.alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription for your car and it will have all the test and wiring information you want.
If you find the alternator is the culprit it could even be the brushes have fallen out one side or the other and is shorting if the battery is fully charged take it to auto zone and they can test the alternator output, if it does not put out 13.5 to 14.5 volts and 60 or 90 amps and 900 RPMS you know the alternator is bad just buy a replacement because rebuilding your alternator would cost as much buying a new or rebuilt alternator that has had everything done to it.
Now for the check engine light while your at auto zone you can have them pull the codes for your computer and that will help give you an ideal if the two problems are related. If the battery voltage drops below 10.5 volts the check engine light will come on because the computer is detecting low voltage if you run it on low voltage for very long you may burn out the computer. Hope this helps and thanks for using fix-ya
Testimonial: "Thanks for taking the time and all the great advise. I changed the alt. and have had no problems thus far. "
SOURCE: jump started car, dash lights flash and car won't start
turn key but all i get is a click from fuse box ,i check relays and starter and battery all ok
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