Battery went dead. Unhooked connections and charged battery. When I reconnect the charged battery the horn blows and keeps on blowing. I connected the neg. side first and then the positive. The second I touch the positive terminal the horn goes off. How do I hook up the battery without the horn blowing.
Always connect the positive terminal first, that way if you hit the wrench against a ground source while it's touching the + battery side, it won't arc or spark.
Is it possible that your alarm (if equipped), is going off? After properly connecting the battery, try disarming the alarm with the key fob. Hope this helps.
Usually this is because the battery is still too low. I would try a new battery. You may have a bad cell. Try that first. or use a jumper cable from a known good car. to make it easier you might want to unhook the horn wire while you try it all.
SOURCE: security system/battery
plz check the following and update me
1. Fuel (To be exact proper air/fuel ratio, normally it is about 14/1)
2. Spark (in appropriate moment)
3. Proper timing (the valves should open and close only in appropriate time)
4. Compression in the cylinders (Normal compression is 120 - 170 psi. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi.)
SOURCE: Brake Light Fuse
You have a short in the lighting system. Try removing both brake bulbs and with a new fuse installed.. does it still blow the fuse? If not, then install one bulb at a time and repeat the test.. You probably have a short in or around the bulb socket.. Hope this helps
SOURCE: 1996 honda accord no turn signal
Check the wiring in the front and back to lights for shorts to ground, if nothing is found replace the turn signal switch, be careful to disarm the airbag before doing any work on the column as the steering wheel must be pulled to replace the turn switch.
SOURCE: changed out dead battery and horn wont stop
Hello.
Changing out the old battery, you may somehow shorted something out in the car. You can check this by seeing if you have any power going to the lights on the car and what ever else that uses the power when you turn on the key. Newer cars like yours usually cant short out, but if the lights and other stuff dont work when your check them, disconnect the battery and look for the fuse panel. Check ALL your fuses and make sure none of them have been blown. You can check that by seeing if the filament in them looks to be burnt or broken as if it popped.
You can also check and make sure that the negative battery terminal is on tight enough. Sometimes a bad ground can mess everything up. As your doing this, before your reconnect your battery, go under the hood of your car and disconnect the horn. This will allow you to work without the horn blaring. To disconnect the horn, its just a wire with an end that simply slides over a metal tab, just give it a pull and it should come right off. You may have two horns so check both sides of the radiator. Hope this helps!
-Steve
SOURCE: 2000 Honda Odyssey. The passenger side
The driver's Multiplex Control System is a small computer that controls (among many other things) the dash lights brightness, ignition key interlock, shift interlock, and has a tie in to the brake light system and horn relay. It may be that this small computer malfunctioned and started the whole problem chain.
However, I note from the factory shop manual that if polarity is reversed on the shift interlock--it can be damaged. Reverse polarity will ruin the diode inside the shift interlock. This could have happened when you jumped the battery--a brief period of getting the cables and terminals mixed up could have done it.
Checking the shift lock solenoid can be done by removing the steering column upper cover. Disconnect the shift lock solenoid connector (2 terminals). Using long jumper wires, apply battery voltage to terminal 1 (yellow wire side) of the solenoid and ground terminal 2 (green wire side). Check that the shift lever can now be moved out of Park. NOTE: applying voltage in the opposite direction of that above will damage the diode in the solenoid and will probably ruin it. Remove your jumpers and shift back to park and check that the solenoid locks. If the solenoid does not work properly, it will need to be replaced. This involves removing the end of the transmission shift cable and is a complex job. Remember, no power to the solenoid equals a locked solenoid--it takes power to unlock it.
The Multiplex Control Unit has a self diagnostic feature which checks the computer itself and inputs to the computer. The computer check is called mode 1 and the input test is mode 2. The diagnostic trouble codes are outputted to the ignition key light and beeper.
To test, first confirm that all fuses are good, especially fuse 9 (10A) in the driver's under dash fuse box (left kick panel) and fuse 13 (7.5A) in the passenger's under dash fuse box (right kick panel). Then use a jumper wire (a wire with small alligator clips on each end works best) to jump the two leads of the multiplex test connector. (This is a light green 2 terminal connector dangling from the same wire bundle as the brake pedal switch connector.) Buckle the driver's seat belt (avoids nuisance beeps). Now turn the ignition switch to on. After about 5 seconds, the ignition key light should come on and the beeper should beep for 2 seconds then stop for .2 sec. then beep once for .2 seconds. This indicates that the system is in diagnostic mode 1.
If no diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) are present, the key light and beeper will not blink/beep again. If there are codes: about one second after entering mode 1, the key light and beeper will indicate the DTC and repeat it every 3 seconds. If there are more than one, the system will indicate them in ascending order. The codes will be a light flash and beep so you will have to count the flashes/beeps to keep track. The codes range from 1 to 6. Code 3 (three flashes/beeps) indicates a problem with the multiplex control unit itself. Write back here for other codes or for questions about mode 2.
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