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Ok, if the ground wire from the ignition fried, somehow, does that mean that the whole wire has to be replaced? I noticed that the wires from the ignition end at another box that splits and goes God knows where. Anyway, am I going to have to rip the whole dash up to get to these? Like including the radio and the steering wheel and everything up top?
Unfortunately there are only two ways to do this. 1. open up the harness and trace & replace burned wire. 2. cut both ends of the burned wire and leave burned section in place, then run a new wire BUT you need to know if there are any branch circuits coming off it and destinations, and, if the burned wire has crossed over into any other wire you will not see it. Third option is to replace entire harness with a good one. (time intensive and expensive, but actually the best option) Note: you also need to find the reason it burned or anything you do will likely fry again!
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Hey Dami,
When the ground wire burns you have 1. A loose ground that causes too much resistance.. or. . 2. a direct short from the positive side of the electrical system. This is a job for a qualified professional.
Disconnect the ignition coil output wire at the distributor cap. Connect a spark plug to the end of the ignition coil output wire which you just disconnected. Connect a ground wire to the threaded portion of the spark plug. Disconnect the ignition coil ground wire from the negative terminal on the coil (Green Wire). Connect one end of a ground wire to the ignition coil negative terminal. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position. Tap the other end of the ignition coil ground wire jumper on an good grounding point (for example the battery negative terminal) and look for sparks at the spark plug that correspond to the frequency of your tapping of the ground wire. If you have a good spark at the spark plug, the ignition coil is good. If you don't get a good spark, check for approximately 12 VDC from the coil positive terminal (black wire) to ground with the ignition switch in the ON position. You should also get approximately 12 VDC from the coil negative terminal (Green wire) to ground Ignition Coil Resistance Check
In addition to the test above, you may elect to perform an ignition coil resistance check as confirmation of the coil's condition.
Check the ignition coil primary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the positive (Black wire) and negative (Green wire) terminals on the coil. The resistance should be 0.4 to 0.6 ohms. Check the ignition coil secondary coil resistance by connecting an ohmmeter between the coil output terminal and the ignition coil negative terminal. The resistance should be 5000 to 7200 ohms.
You may have a bad coil or bad ground or wire connection
Having same issue I replaced it but not back to 02 sensor low voltage.I'll bet anything I'm still researching but all of us replacing parts and it doesn't help. I hear there is a Body Control Module somehow integrated in the cluster that controls power to relays and other modules if there is a short or ground issue the whole car has issues also the vehicle security control module if it has a short or ground issues kills the OBD 2 port as well somehow it in the ignition system short or ground issues similar issues. Hope this helps all of us!
How did you check for the ground pulse? Each injector ground wire goes individually to the pcm to be grounded internally. It is unlikely that all 4 (or 6, if the 4.3L) ground wires would be damaged or broken. Can you ohm out 1 or 2 of the ground wires from injector to pcm connector-to check for breaks or wire integrity? If they good, more likely the pcm/vcm is not being fully powered up. Or maybe the security system has somehow disabled the injector circuit?
Here is a way to check the ground circuit: Use a test light. Clip the test light lead to the POSITIVE battery post, and put the probe into a ground wire terminal of one injector. When the engine is being cranked over, the test light should be blinking, meaning the pcm is grounding the circuit internally. You are putting battery voltage into the ground wire. When the test light blinks, the pcm is grounding the circuit.
ok post the pics but if the insulation is burnt you seem to know the problem i'd change the battery and all damaged wires/leads , make sure you check the alternator charge rate immediately on install of new battery as could be over charging
The engine is the ground side of the starter If your talking some wire you see coming out of the starter it's self, then you replace the starter & solve all the control side issues before you turn the key on the next new starter The battery may be okey
That sounds like you have 1 ground wire, 1 wire for the low beam, and 1 wire for the high beam. If the car has the standard halogen headlight bulb I would recommend replacing it and seeing if that fixes the problem.
Sound like a ground problem; the fastest way to identify the Power and Ground Circuits is using a wiring diagram. If you don't have one you'll have to find out by trial and error as you probe each circuit.
The power circuit is tested with the Key On and Engine Off. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Negative Terminal and with the other end, probe the Power Circuit. Turn the Key to the Run position. If the Power Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up. Here are the possible results: * You got 12 Volts on the Power Circuit Good, this is a good sign. The next step is to check the Ground Circuit of the Coil on Plug connector that you're testing.
* No Power in only one Ignition Coil Without 12 Volts, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Power the new one will not Spark. Since the Power Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Power Circuit. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up. After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.
* No Power at any Ignition Coils The fuse or relay that supplies this voltage is blown or BAD. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to see where this fuse and/or relay is located and replace as necessary. After replacing the blown fuse or the defective relay. Retest the Ignition Coil.
Them, the Ground Circuit is tested with the Key On or Off. It doesn't matter because this is a Chassis Ground. Place one end of your multimeter or Test Light on the Battery Positive Terminal and with the other end, probe the Ground Circuit. If the Ground Circuit is OK, the Multimeter will show 12 Volts or the Test Light will light up.
* You got Ground Good, now the next step is to verify that the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil is receiving the Triggering Signal. This info belongs to the next section of this article.
* No Ground in only one Ignition Coil Without this Ground, the Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil will not work, thus you have just eliminated that specific Ignition Coil as the source of the fault. Replacing the Ignition Coil with a new one will only be a waste of time and money since, without Ground the new one will not Spark. Since the Ground Circuit is shared by all of the coils on the majority of Coil-on-Plug Ignition Systems. The most likely cause will be an open short in that Ignition Coil's Ground Circuit. You'll have to consult your Repair Manual's wiring diagrams to make sure how everything is wired up. After repairing the short, re-do the Spark Test to verify the Ignition Coil is now working.
* No Ground at any Ignition Coils This usually happens thru' human error in most cases and is a very rare thing. Usually the engine was replaced and this ground was not re-attached. You can Ground this circuit with a jumper wire. Jumpering to Ground just one Coil-on-Plug Ignition Coil should provide Ground to all of them (consult your Repair Manual's Wiring Diagrams to be sure). With this jumper wire to Ground attached, crank the vehicle. If in fact the Ground Circuit does have an open short, this (the jumper wire to Ground) should make the vehicle start, or at least get the Ignition Coil to Spark. Repair the open short and retest for Spark or retry starting the vehicle.
Well, your initial problem sounds like a bad starter motor and now somehow there is another problem. First, make sure the battery shows 12v with a volt meter. If its ok thenit may be that you accidentally hooked the battery up backwards...even for a second, it would have blown out a main fuse. Notice any sparks when you installed the battery? Or, did you try to jump it with another car and put the cables on wrong? If no too all this the check the smaller wires on the positive battery end to make sure none broke. The main fuses are located in the relay/fuse box near the battery. Hope this helps.
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